Maine Home Garden News, University of Maine Cooperative Extension

In this issue:
June is the month to . . .
Lawn Mower Safety Tips
Expanding Your Herbal Horizon
C is for Cutworm
From the Soil Up... A Webinar for
Beginning Vegetable Gardeners

View current and past issues of Maine Home Garden News.

Maine Home Garden News
June 2009

June is the month to . . .

If wildlife damage is a problem to your garden or property, consider finding out about the fencing program from the US Department of Agriculture APHIS in Maine. Call 207-622 -8263 to learn about the “lease to buy” program for electric and other types of fencing. This program is available to home gardeners as well as farmers.
Be aware of ticks. The Vector Borne Disease Lab is part of Maine Medical Center located in Portland and provides information and identification services. Click on the link or call 207-662-7142 to learn more about their submission program.
If you have the space, consider planting additional vegetables and flowers this month. Consider growing some vegetables and flowers in containers. For a fact sheet on container gardening see the UMaine Extension Web site or call 1-800-287-1471 (toll free in Maine only).
It’s still not too late to plant seedlings (transplants) of tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant.
Consider obtaining “Pest Management for the Home Vegetable Garden in Maine,” a new 20-page publication from UMaine Extension. Click on the link or call 1-800-287-0274 (toll free in Maine only).
Be observant of possible insect pest damage to your plantings by making walk-throughs each week. Look for leaf, stem, and blossom damage. Check the undersides of leaves for egg masses. Make an accurate identification of the pest(s) before making any treatments. If you don’t know what the pest is, bring a sample of insect, diseased leaves or damaged leaves into your local UMaine Extension county office for identification. Many people have started e-mailing digital pictures of pest problems. You can e-mail digital pictures to dcoffin@umext.maine.edu.
Learn about the University of Maine Cooperative Extension Pest Management Office (PMO) by visiting the PMO Web site or calling 1-800-287-0279 (toll free in Maine). The PMO provide lots of facts sheets and a free diagnostic service for plant related diseases and insects.
Listen to the weather prediction for night time temperatures and be prepared to cover any cold sensitive crops (tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, etc.) when temperatures go below 40^o F. Tomatoes will benefit from protection against temperatures cooler than 50^o F.
Protect strawberry flowers from frost with a light continual mist of water early in the morning when frost is predicted to occur.
Check the soil moisture and keep an eye on the rain fall amounts. Remember most crops do best with 1 to 1.5 inches of rain per week.
Annual flowers will benefit from split applications of fertilizer (proportioned every few weeks) during the summer. Don't over fertilize. Dead-heading flowers will maintain their flowering habit longer.
Tell a friend or colleagues about Maine Home Garden News. Current and back issues are available at extension.umaine.edu/gardennews.

By Richard Brzozowski, Extension Educator, Cumberland County, Maine, rbrz@umext.maine.edu, and Donna Coffin, Extension Educator, Piscataquis County, Maine, dcoffin@umext.maine.edu

Woman mowing lawn with improper footware
Improper footwear for mowing

Lawn Mower Safety Tips
By Richard Brzozowski, Extension Educator, Cumberland County, Maine, rbrz@umext.maine.edu

People in Maine get injured in lawn mower related accidents every year. These tips are listed as a reminder to work safely when mowing.

Wear work boots when mowing with walk behind mowers. Work boots with suitable tread provide good footing for inclines. Do not wear sandals, sneakers or footwear that does not provide good footing or protection to the toes.
Avoid mowing when the grass is wet as slippage could be a problem.
When mowing inclines, go across the hill, not up and down.
Keep all guards and safety features of your mower in place and in working order.
Wear ear protection when using your mower.
When using a riding mowing, do not allow passengers. No extra riders!
Do not place hands, feet, or any body part near the working blades.
Turn off the machine when removing debris from below the mower deck or unclogging the shoot.
Set the working height of your blade(s) at the appropriate level for safety sake. Avoid hitting stones, sticks and other protrusions.
Be aware of your surroundings. Avoid mowing when others are present as items struck by blades could become missiles.
When cleaning the mower after use, disconnect the spark plug wire to avoid accidental starting.

Expanding Your Herbal Horizon
by Amy Witt, Extension Horticulturist, Cumberland County; awitt@umext.maine.edu

Whether used for food, medicine, aromatherapy, or just because of their attractiveness, herbs are a valuable addition to any garden. Most are easy to grow and many are pest free. What dedicated or novice gardener hasn’t grown common herbs like basil, mint, thyme and nasturtiums? All of which bring pleasure to the pallet and beauty to the eye?

There are lots of herbs out there. Many are not familiar to most backyard gardeners however; a number of them are certainly worth a prominent place in any garden. Allow me to introduce you to four of them.

Cowslip (Primula veris) Cowslip is a low-growing, zone 5 perennial, which is native to England and Europe. It grows to be 6-inches tall and 6-inches wide. It’s one of the first plants to appear in the early spring as a basal rosette with soft, crinkled, ovate, and grayish-green leaves. The nodding, fragrant, deep yellow flowers with orange-spotted throats bring a bit of sunshine to any woodland garden, shady path or border. Cowslip can tolerate full sun to part shade in the spring, but once summer comes, it likes full shade. It needs a well drained soil, amended with organic matter and mulch. The flowers are rich with sweet nectar which is an attraction to humans, hummingbirds and butterflies. The fresh blossoms can be used in salads. Fresh or dried flowers can also be brewed into tea to soothe headaches and calm nerves. Traditionally cowslip has been used as an ingredient in syrups, vinegars and wines. Cowslip is certainly a colorful and important addition to any spring garden.	Cowslip (Primula veris) Photo by USDA-NRCS. Used with Permission
Germander (Teucrium chamaedrys) Although it is a member of the mint family, germander is more disciplined and keeps itself in a low mounded habit. Germander is a zone 5, fragrant perennial which grows to be 1-foot by 1-foot and looks like a miniature boxwood plant. It is perfect for outlining a formal herbal knot garden. This evergreen plant with its small, glossy leaves produces spikes of pink flowers from mid-July through mid-September and the bees love it. In fact, it is often planted near hives. Germander likes a well-drained, slightly acidic, average soil. It needs to be planted in a sheltered location to protect from the wind and winter elements. This herb is diuretic and antiseptic, and is used to treat inflammation. It is also used to flavor vermouth and other liqueurs. Because of its attractive foliage and strong stems, germander is popular material for topiaries and living wreaths. This pest free, heat and drought tolerant plant is a wonderful addition to any garden.	Germander (Teucrium chamaedrys) Photo by Cornell. Used with permission
Sweet Cicely/Myrrh (Myrrhis odorata) Another early spring herb is sweet cicely. This fragrant and showy zone 4, long lived perennial is a nice addition to any woodland edge or border. The soft ferny, foot-long leaves outline clusters of white spring blossoms. The seedheads provide an additional attraction throughout the summer and fall. Sweet cicely prefers moist, humus rich soil in part shade. Because of its long tap root, it does not transplant well. Not to worry as it will self seed. All parts of this licorice tasting plant are edible. The green seeds have an intense flavor and are best used fresh. You can eat them by themselves, like candy, or use them in salads, soups or egg dishes. They can also be used as a sugar substitute in desserts or as a substitute for anise or caraway seeds. The leaves, which can be harvested at anytime, are used as a garnish, in soups, stews and salads. Dig the roots up in the fall for use fresh in salads, or boil or steam and serve them as a vegetable. Infuse the crushed green seeds or bruised leaves for a sweet-anise flavored tea to help with digestion. Sweet cicely is an often overlooked herb, which is definitely worth of a look.	Sweet Cecily/Myrrh (Myrrhis odorata) Photo by wikimedia. Used with permission.
Elecampane (Inula helenium) Commonly known as wild sunflower, elecampane is the perfect back-of- the-border plant. The sturdy, 6-foot tall zone 4 perennial has 16-inch oval pointed leaves and yellow daisy like blossoms during the summer months. Elecampane thrives in full-sun and moist soil amended with organic matter. Petals can be dried and added to potpourri and the dried seedheads make a nice addition to flower arrangements. The roots have an aroma like tropical fruit and can be eaten cooked or dried. They are often candied and used to flavor desserts and liqueurs. Elecampane is also antibacterial, antifungal, an expectorant and is used to treat coughs and other bronchial ailments. This striking plant definitely deserves a place in the garden.	Elecampane (inula helenium) Photo by wikimedia. Used with permission.

Have fun planting and experimenting with these and other herbs that are new to you.

For more on herbs, visit these Web sites:
Herb Society of America at www.herbsociety.org
Herb Dictionary, Penn State Department of Horticulture, at http://horticulture.psu.edu/cms/vegcrops/node/1

C is for Cutworm
by Richard Brzozowski, Extension Educator, Cumberland County, Maine, rbrz@umext.maine.edu

There are several different types of cutworms. They can be categorized as surface, climbing, army or subterranean. Because of their many similarities, it is difficult to tell one species of cutworm from another. In New England, many cutworms have one generation per year. Some can produce two or more generations. Most of the damage by cutworms is noticed in the spring and early summer. Cutworm caterpillars kill or set back plants by feeding on the roots or stems. Cutworms seem to favor corn, peppers, tomatoes, cole crops, and beans. The larvae are nocturnal, hiding underground during the day.

Cutworms overwinter in the late larval or pupal stage. The moths may appear soon after the spring temperatures begin to rise. The moths harbor in weedy areas, especially if mustard or quackgrass is present. The moths fly at night and lay their eggs in the soil.

Once the garden is planted, the young larvae feed on small roots until they are half grown. They are more likely to cut off plants at ground level as they grow. The thick-bodied larvae are normally dark in color and will curl up in to a "C" when disturbed.

Try a nighttime stroll in the garden to find these pests. A flashlight covered with red transparent wrap will be helpful in spotting nocturnal pests. The red light does not warn them of your coming.

Non Chemical Control Strategies for Cutworms

Protect seedlings with a collar made from cardboard or plastic. Paper cups, yogurt cups, 1/2 gallon milk cartons or jugs work nicely for this purpose.
Trap the cutworms with a bait of cornmeal or bran meal. The cutworms will die of overeating as the meal swells within them.
Place a toothpick, small stick or nail upright beside the stem of each seedling. The cutworm will be unable to wrap it self around the plant.
Sprinkle diatomaceous earth or wood ashes around the base of the plant. The sharpness and dryness of these materials create a barrier that cutworms don't like to cross.
Cutworm resistant varieties are available for some beans.
Encourage natural predators such as birds or bats.

Other Controls

Bacillus Thuringiensis (Bt) can be effective on some species of cutworms. The smaller the worm the more effective the Bt.
Insecticide dusts (Sevin or rotenone) applied around the base of the plant my be effective.
Always read and follow the label directions when using pesticides.

From the Soil Up... A Webinar for Beginning Vegetable Gardeners
A four-session course that you can take on your computer about the basics of home vegetable gardening, from garden planning to pest management, harvest and storage.

The course is comprised of four 1-hour sessions, from noon until 1:00 p.m., scheduled to coincide with their seasonal topics:

May 1: Planning your garden and starting seeds.

June 5: Transplanting, fertilizing and weed control

July 10: Pest and disease management

Sept 11: Season extension, harvesting, and storage

Cost: $15 total for all four sessions. Registrants will receive the Smart Gardener Manual, links to other factsheets, and connections to the session Web address. You will be invited to join our From the Soil Up Facebook group and share what is happening in your garden and upload pictures of pests or plant problems.

The first session of the From the Soil Up “Webinar” is archived on the Web, so if you missed it, don’t worry. You can still view this session and join future live sessions of From the Soil Up from your computer.

To register, please send a check for $15 (payable to PCEA) to Piscataquis County Extension Office, 165 East Main St., Dover-Foxcroft, ME 04426 or call 1-800-287-1491 or e-mail amiles@umext.maine.edu. For more information: http://tinyurl.com/FromtheSoilUp.

Published and distributed in furtherance of Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914, by the University of Maine Cooperative Extension, the Land Grant University of the state of Maine and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating. Cooperative Extension and other agencies of the U.S.D.A. provide equal opportunities in programs and employment.

Call 800-287-0274 or TDD 800-287-8957 (in Maine), or 207-581-3188, for information on publications and program offerings from University of Maine Cooperative Extension, or visit www.extension.umaine.edu.

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