Maine Home Garden News – April
In This Issue:
- April Is the Month to . . .
- Seasonal Sightings
- Finding Your Place in Community Gardens
- Soil Fertility Basics
- Big Yields on Small Plots: Succession Planting
- Pollinator Ponderings: Beginnings
- Seeing Seeds Differently
- Ask the Expert
- What Mainers are Asking About Jumping Worms
- MeshTech: A New Strategy for Managing Knotweed
- Maine Weather and Climate Overview
April Is the Month to . . .
By Kate Garland, Horticulture Professional
Keep a close eye on your seedlings. My plant babies are part of my daily morning and evening routines. I check them right after I wake my kids and again once everyone is tucked in for the night. Watch for early signs of stress or pest issues and address them early while it’s easier to manage. Common seedling challenges include damping off, fungus gnats, and elongated, leggy growth.
Overwatering is one of the most common mistakes gardeners make and is often the primary cause of damping off and fungus gnats. It can usually be avoided by waiting to water until it’s truly necessary. If you’re unsure whether a seedling needs water, it’s best to wait. When you’re checking plants twice a day, seedlings are far more likely to recover from slight underwatering than from excess moisture, since you’ll be able to catch and respond quickly if they begin to wilt.
Does elongated, leggy growth sound familiar? If so, your seedlings likely need more light. Keep grow lights about 4 inches above the seedling canopy, either by raising the seedlings or lowering the light. I often find it easier to prop up the seedlings, especially when they’re at varying heights. If grow light space or sunny window space is limited, rotating seedlings through the brightest spots can also help.
Sow or re-sow seeds. April is the ideal time for many edible crops and ornamental flowers to be started from seed indoors. If you sowed too early and seedlings are suffering from some of the fates listed above, keep in mind that many things may have been better timed for April anyway. Here are some on my list to start this month for the Demonstration Garden at Rogers Farm: aster, cosmos, dahlia, gomphrena, marigold, tithonia, amaranth, dianthus, petunia, strawflower, basil, tomato, zinnia, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, kohlrabi. Many of these types can also be directly sown into the garden, so I’ll likely save some of the seed to do that as well. Seed packets and seed catalogs are often your handiest resources when it comes to finding out whether crops can be direct sown as well.
Provide a safe and welcoming space for cavity-nesting birds. Remove old nesting materials from existing bird boxes. Wear gloves and, if boxes are especially dirty, wash with mild soapy water allowing the bird box to dry completely before closing. Consider adding additional boxes to support more feathered families this season, but be sure the design is appropriate for the species you’re aiming to support by following guidance from Audubon. Planting natives, adding water features, keeping cats indoors, minimizing nighttime lighting, and providing habitat such as native hedgerows are all practices that create the conditions that allow birds to thrive; setting the stage for the reward of witnessing their life cycle unfold.
Rethink your spring mulching strategy. As you plan for spring cleanup (more happening next month and into June), it’s helpful to understand the impact our actions have on the broader ecological community. Traditional mulching practices using shredded bark, wood chips, compost, and other coverings can give your landscapes a visual boost, help with moisture management and suppress weeds, but may come with unintended consequences. Be aware that thick layers of mulch can disrupt the life cycle of many ground-dwelling insects that play crucial ecological roles such as pollination, decomposition and serving as predators of other insect species. While you may still want to freshen up some spaces with mulch, do so in moderation, consider the impact it may have on the biodiversity of your landscape and, where you may be able to embrace a more natural look, allow natural plant dieback and fallen leaves to stay in place and serve as your mulch.
Dial in your gardening commitments based on your summertime plans. As vacations get booked, friends and family share their plans for visits and other life happenings become more clear, it’s important to pause and balance your natural spring gardener’s excitement with the reality that you might not have enough time to maintain your entire garden footprint this season or, conversely, it’s time to ramp up your game and expand your growing space. If you need to take a break or scale back an existing garden, this is a great time to gather materials to temporarily cover the space either with physical barriers such as a silage tarp or cardboard topped with woodchips or make a plan to grow cover crops.
You might be wondering whether covering an area contradicts the earlier note about impacts on insects. It can, but gardening, like life, is a balancing act, and it’s important to weigh the tradeoffs of our actions. Keeping the area covered with physical barriers will minimize weed seed deposits and keep perennial weeds from getting a foothold in the area while cover crops can add organic matter, have positive impacts on weed suppression and can improve nutrient availability.
Lastly, it’s time to finish (or start) pruning. The window for dormant pruning is closing quickly, but winter is still lingering in many parts of Maine, so there’s a bit more time for fair-weather pruners to tackle a few trees and shrubs before buds begin to swell and elongate. Perhaps you can create a useful piece of garden art (see How to Make a Twiggy Trellis) with those freshly cut stems. It’s also an important time to scout for and remove any browntail moth webs before mid-April.
Seasonal Sightings
Article and photo by Maine Audubon Field Naturalist Stacia Brezinski
Sensitive Ferns are releasing spores in early April. They’ve held onto them all winter in tightly rolled modified leaflets that contain spore-producing structures. These fertile fronds, which look like stalks of beads, grew the previous spring, after the leafy sterile fronds unfurled. This reproductive strategy allows spores to travel on the wind relatively unimpeded by foliage and germinate in ground that’s moist from recent snow melt. This annual cycle has been going on for a very long time; the oldest discovered Sensitive Fern fossils are 55 million years old.
In addition to their beady sterile fronds, they also reproduce through rhizomes. As a result, they often form large colonies. Sensitive Ferns make excellent ground cover and provide shelter for skulking birds, amphibians, and small mammals. Look for these ancient plants in lowland forests near rivers and lakes. The fiddleheads of sterile fronds will start poking through the leaf litter at the end of April and beginning of May.
Other April signs of wildlife to look for:
- Listen for American Woodcocks around wet fields calling “peent”, which is part of their mating displays.
- Spring peepers begin calling on warm nights. Beware of amphibians on the move! The first warm rain will get frogs and salamanders moving across roads. Get ready for a Big Night! Learn more about helping them here: mainebignight.org.
- Look for large red Fox Sparrows on the ground under your feeders as they pass through on their journey north.
Finding Your Place in Community Gardens
Article and photo by Carrick Gambell, Urban Agriculture Professional UMaine Cooperative Extension and Natural Resources Conservation Service
How many community gardens are there in our state? By my count we have well over 100, approaching 120. That number is likely much larger, considering that apartment complexes, churches, and hospitals also offer private community gardens. And every year committed Master Gardener Volunteers and community activists launch initiatives to provide new opportunities for neighbors to garden and gather.
The Community Garden Map is a resource for Mainers seeking a sense of community through food. The map includes information about spaces with individual garden plots and opportunities to volunteer in collective growing efforts. It also serves as a powerful reminder of the bonds within communities, from Kittery to The County. We hope this tool can help you find community through gardening this year.
Soil Fertility Basics
By Rebecca Long, Coordinator of Horticulture Training Programs
This article is the third in a miniseries focused on building healthy soils. If you missed them, check out the previous articles on soil testing and adjusting pH. This month we’re focusing on soil fertility.
Most Maine soils contain many of the nutrients plants need, but the ones used in the largest amounts: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), may need to be added to support a productive garden.
Fertilizer is anything added to the soil to supply plant nutrients, and there are many options. Conventional fertilizers are manufactured using naturally occurring mineral deposits or nitrogen from the atmosphere. They contain higher concentrations of nutrients that are immediately available to plants, are typically less expensive, but are easier to accidentally over apply.
Organic fertilizers are derived directly from plant, animal, or mineral sources. They generally contain lower levels of plant nutrients and release nutrients more slowly because they may require biological breakdown. They are usually applied in larger amounts and can cost more, but they may also add organic matter to the soil.
Plants cannot tell whether a nutrient came from an organic or conventional source, so consider cost, convenience, and your gardening goals when selecting a fertilizer.
To choose a product, you’ll need to understand fertilizer labels. The three numbers on the label (for example, 10-10-10) represent the percentage of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). Ideally, select a fertilizer that matches the recommendations from your soil test. If you don’t have a test, look for a balanced product or one formulated for the crop you’re growing. Some organic fertilizers supply mainly one nutrient, such as blood meal for nitrogen or bone meal for phosphorus, while blended products provide all three and offer a simple solution so you don’t need to purchase, weigh, and store multiple products.
Whether plants need fertilizer depends on soil fertility, organic matter levels, the type of plant, and its age. Because too much fertilizer can harm plants and the environment, apply it only when there is a clear need, such as a nutrient deficiency.
Vegetable gardens often benefit from fertilizer because harvesting removes nutrients from the soil. In contrast, established ornamental plants, such as trees, shrubs, and many perennials, often grow well without added fertilizer.
Compost, while incredibly valuable, is not typically considered a fertilizer because it contains relatively small amounts of nutrients that are not always immediately available to plants. Compost is a great amendment to boost soil health but won’t replace supplemental fertilizer. Manure can supply nutrients but may contain human pathogens, so follow safety guidelines when applying it. Whenever applying soil amendments, read the product’s label and make sure to wear appropriate personal protective equipment like gloves, goggles, and a mask.
Next month will dive more into best practices for applying amendments to your soil.
Big Yields on Small Plots: Succession Planting
By Carrick Gambell, Urban Agriculture Professional UMaine Cooperative Extension and Natural Resources Conservation Service
Several years ago I lived in an apartment outside of Boston, gardening in a 4 foot by 4 foot raised bed in a narrow side yard. My neighbors were an elderly Italian couple, and their garden was an inspiration. Every inch of grass was ripped up, and they were growing vegetables I’d never seen or imagined growing in a humble urban yard. By August, a half dozen wooden tipis were draped with green beans, tomatoes hung heavily above bushes of parsley and basil, and tromboncino squash climbed boldly along the chain link fence. They had squeezed a cherry tree into the corner of their yard, which bore surprisingly sweet fruit that they generously shared with passersby. Through careful plant selection, timing, dense plantings, and some low tech trellises, these neighbors could eat abundantly from their garden for most of the year. The strategies they used are ones we can all employ to maximize the yields from our gardens. The first strategy begins at home, as you plan the spacing and location of your plants. To make the most of your garden space this year, consider succession planting.
Succession planting is the practice of planning the use of your garden space and planting times for continual harvests throughout the season. This practice helps ensure that when you finish harvesting one crop, another is ready to fill the vacant space. Rather than envisioning your garden as beholden to a few plants that are planted in the spring and harvested in the summer, a succession involves planting and harvesting at multiple times, spring through fall. This practice allows gardeners to make the most of their space, and recover from plant failure, a reality of most garden seasons. If an early crop fails, the gardener has a next plant in mind to fill that space.
There are three considerations for effective succession planting. The first is ‘days to harvest,’ a measure estimated on any seed packet. If a gardener plants 6 heads of lettuce, they may be overwhelmed trying to harvest and eat all of them at once. Different lettuce varieties grow at different rates, so they could plant one variety ready in 45-50 days, and a second ready in 60-65 days. Even if they plant their different lettuces at the same time, they will likely be able to stagger their harvest and increase the window for their home-grown salads.
A second consideration is cold tolerance. Some crops, like those in the brassica family, prefer the cooler weather of spring and fall, while others prefer the consistent warmth of summer. Instead of leaving your garden space empty for tomatoes in June, gardeners can grow a row of radish, turnips, or spinach, all quick-growing, spring-loving crops.
The third consideration is the harvest period. When a crop is harvested after it reaches maturity, that space can immediately be used for a new planting. Once their onions or garlic are pulled and curing, a gardener can use that same space for a new planting.
Succession planting is a foundational technique to making the most of a small plot. Next month, we’ll discuss trellises.
Pollinator Ponderings: Beginnings
By Lynne Holland, Horticulture Professional
Did you know that April 1 used to be New Year’s Day? According to NPR, one theory is that the holiday “… began in 1564, when France transitioned from the Julian calendar to the Gregorian calendar, moving New Year’s Day from late March/April 1st to January 1st.” Anyone still celebrating the New Year on April 1 was a fool.
April 1 is also very close to the spring equinox, and that is a time of new beginnings for many cultures in the northern hemisphere. For the Pollinator-Friendly Garden Certification Program, this is also a new beginning. Applications are once again available to get your garden certified. If you are a Maine gardener and have been waiting to get your garden certified, now is your opportunity. This relaunch inspired me to use this month’s Pollinator Ponderings to look back to 2020 and the FIRST garden that was certified in the then brand new Pollinator-Friendly Garden Certification Program.
In August 2020, Jude Hsiang of South China, Maine, was the first gardener to have her garden certified as pollinator-friendly. Jude herself was actually at a new beginning as well, having just moved to Maine from Connecticut in 2019. In some ways, unbeknownst to the committee, Jude had something extra going in her favor. Jude had been part of the University of Connecticut Master Gardener Volunteer program, where she also taught botany. Plant’s Latin names were a second language to her.
The foundation of success for any garden to be pollinator-friendly is for it to have the food that pollinators are looking for. When Jude arrived in Maine, she was able to see what plants were already there on the property and properly identify them. From there, it was a matter of determining their bloom time in her new gardening spot and then “curating” what she had. In some cases, gardening is as much about editing as it is about adding. Early in the program, the certification required SIX plants per season (early, mid, and late). Currently, the requirement is only three, and although more native plants are always encouraged, it is not required. Jude fought the good fight to get rid of Autumn Olive (Elaeagnus umbellata), the one invasive that was really affecting her garden. That was the lion’s share of her certification completed.
Photos of Jude’s garden show a very naturalistic garden. It borders on being more like habitat restoration. It is grounded in keystone species in the early spring, like red maple and red oak. Her midseason garden is where she has natives that are not generally on people’s shopping lists. Chives (Allium schoenoprasum), evening primrose (Oenothera biennis), and self heal (Prunella vulgaris) are all plants that volunteer or seem to come in the dark of the night from who knows where! The fall plant list was more traditional and had the usual suspects. Solidago, asters, and milkweed anchor her fall garden and create a buffet for the neighborhood pollinators.
The area that was being certified started out with lots of positive attributes. It was large enough that there was a swamp on site, and it was adjacent to a farm pond, so that ticked the “Water for Pollinators” box. There were also areas of hardwoods, mixed hard and softwood, and field areas. Pollinator habitat was easy to provide in that situation between piles of sticks, dead wood, and bare ground. The last part had more to do with what she didn’t do. Jude did not use chemicals of any kind; she left some areas completely untouched except for invasive plant removal, and her experience told her that adding more native plants as she could would only improve the garden.
Not everyone can have the kind of garden that got the first certification of the program. In fact, each garden is unique, and each year is a new beginning. You could almost say that now is the time to make a few “New Year’s Resolutions” for your garden. I hope you resolve to get your garden certified pollinator-friendly this year. Jude and the other 115 Maine gardens that have been certified would welcome the company.
References
April Fools Day Might be the World’s Longest Running Joke NPR April 1, 2023
Pollinator-Friendly Garden Certification website
Seeing Seeds Differently
Intro by Lynne Holland, Horticulture Professional; plant descriptions by Citlalli Constantino, Master Gardener Volunteer
This time of year, gardeners are looking at seed catalogs like kids looked at the Sears Wish Book at Christmas. Master Gardener Volunteers take that scrutiny to a whole new level. But what happens when that gardener is also a Master Food Preserver Volunteer** as well as a personal chef? Here is the first in a sporadic series of articles by Citlalli “Lali” Constantino, Master Gardener Volunteer Intern, Master Food Preserver Volunteer and personal chef who originally hails from the South of Mexico and currently lives and works in Lewiston.
This first article is about two types of seeds that Lali recognized when we were sorting seeds donated by Pinetree Seeds* earlier this year.
Epazote (Dysphania ambrosoides)
Epazote is one of those herbs that are so deeply present in Mexican cuisine that it can be taken for granted until one emigrates to another country where this herb is unknown. Everyday cooking is not the same without it.
Luckily, this herb is very adaptable and can be grown as an annual in zone 5. My research shows it’s a hardy perennial in the south of the US, where it is consumed by the Latino community. It is very easy to sow and grow; it is best germinated 4-6 weeks indoors before the last frost or direct sown once the soil can be worked and the chance of frost has passed. It will perform great in the herb garden. Once it reaches maturity, it can be harvested just before it starts to bloom, which prevents it from going to seed. It can be pinched to make a bushier plant and it can be dried or frozen to be used in the fall/winter months. It can be treated much like basil in the garden and in the kitchen.
To start, the name Epazote does not have a very graceful definition. In the Mexican Nahuatl language, epatl: “skunk” and tzotl: “dirt”, which in conjugation means “skunk smell”. This meaning shouldn’t be a reason not to cultivate this aromatic herb because there are a plethora of good reasons to eat it. The ancient Mexican culture knew for centuries that espazote’s properties are: antiparasitic, alleviate stomach bloating, alleviate cough, and colds. Modern science has discovered its nutrient values are: vitamins B, A, C, calcium, magnesium, potassium, phosphorus, iron, copper, selenium, and zinc.
All in all, this Mesoamerican plant can be used, from its leaves to its roots. There’s a variety that has purple leaves for those who like different-looking plant varieties.
Some culinary applications include adding it to beans, putting it in quesadillas with pumpkin blossoms, mushroom soups, beef stews, and seafood soup. Also, I want to personally add that if beans have that bloating effect, a handful of epazote added to the cooking will improve the digestion of the legume and enhance its flavor.
Hot Pepper Serrano (Capsicum annum)
There’s a Mexican quote that says: “A day without pepper is like a day without sun.” This hot pepper, which resembles a jalapeno, shouldn’t be confused with it because it is spicier, reaching 10,000 to 15,000 Scoville Heat Units (SHU) depending on the growing conditions. A typical jalapeno-type chili is 2,500-8000 units.
It is a plant that is smaller than the jalapeno, and its name, “serrano,” means “from the hills” (sierra). This is where it was first cultivated in the region of Puebla, Hidalgo, Mexico. The ancient Mexicans were grateful to the birds who helped to spread the seeds naturally, so that the use became widespread. With the domestication of agriculture, this Solanaceae also became domesticated and was enjoyed for many years before colonization.
Growing Capsicum annum in the northeast has to be planned at least 8 weeks before the last frost. Provide 75-80 F and good lighting to ensure good germination. Then treat them in the same way as tomatoes and warm-loving crops. They don’t require lots of water. In its natural habitat, it deals with dry spells. This is a less bushy plant and in the fall it can be pruned and brought indoors in a pot with clean potting soil to overwinter. Even when its name reminds us that it is an annual, it is good to note that in hotter climates, these plants can be grown for at least 2 to 3 years
The serrano pepper provides vitamins A, E, and C, in even higher amounts than citrus. It also helps improve digestion. Its culinary uses vary. It is used fresh in salads, as pico de gallo, but one of the main ways to consume it in Mexico is grilled to enhance its smoky flavor and then chopped, mixed with some lemon juice and salt, and added to soups, tacos, and other Mexican delicacies.
References
Pinetree Seeds https://www.superseeds.com/
https://www.incmnsz.mx/2022/Huerto/Hierbas/Epazote.pdf
Mexico on the table, Guillermo Bermudez and Martha Elena Garcia, 2025, Penguin Random House
University of Florida Gardening Solutions, Peppers Ranked by Heat https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/edibles/vegetables/peppers-by-scoville-units/
*No endorsement of products or companies is intended, nor is criticism of unnamed products or companies implied.
** The Master Food Preserver Volunteer Programs is accepting applications until May 1. It will be held in Skowhegan this year in Somerset County. See their website for more information.
About the author
Lali is a Mexican cook, with experience in different culinary areas, from restaurants, cafeterias, cruises, and summer camps. She has been a college culinary arts instructor and currently works at the school nutrition department in a cafeteria at an elementary school in Lewiston. She is a Master preserver, which has allowed her to volunteer and learn from all those experiences. She has also taught some classes at Lewiston Adult Education.
She is passionate about gardening, horticulture, farming, bird watching, and everything related to nature. She fell in love with Maine and a Mainer, a naturalist in spirit.
Ask the Expert
Q. I just moved to Maine from Texas last fall and am wondering if you have a planting calendar you’d recommend for folks like me who are not familiar with growing in colder regions.
Answered by Lynne Holland, Horticulture Professional
A. Welcome to Maine!
Our Planting Chart for the Home Garden is organized by crop and includes yield, spacing, planting depth, and recommended planting windows for each crop. In some cases, that planting window is quite broad (e.g., beets can be planted anytime from April 25 through August 1). If spacing recommendations on a seed packet differ, follow the packet, as specific varieties may require more or less space.
MOFGA (the Maine Organic Farmer and Gardeners Association) organizes their Seed Planting Calendar by date rather than by crop. Their suggestions are based on Zone 5 growing conditions and include when to start seeds indoors. This calendar goes right through summer to allow for succession planting.
The Urban Farmer* has an interesting visual take on the Planting Calendar and if you are into Project Management you will feel right at home. It also covers zones 3-6 and includes average first and last frost dates for the largest cities in Maine.
Lastly, Johnny’s Seeds*, which is based in Maine, also has still another approach, and it is based solely on the last frost date. Their planting calendar is for starting seeds indoors (they are after all a seed company) but it also tells you when to set out the transplants. Some vegetables and a lot of flowers are “Direct Sow” only and starting them indoors does not gain you any time and may set things back so keep that in mind as well. Johnny’s also has helpful information on succession planting timeframes to help growers know when to plant in waves so they have a steady flow of crops rather than having a large amount all at once.
The last resource that I suggest is the Maine Home Garden News, which is a free online magazine from the UMaine Extension Horticulture Team. The link will take you to the main page where you can read the latest issue and subscribe. In addition, all of our past issues are archived and you can go back and read them. We have a column ” XXX is the Month to…..” so you can read up on when you do what in the garden in Maine.
I hope I didn’t overwhelm you. You asked a simple question and I gave you a pretty long answer. Gardening in Maine is always a “Choose your own Adventure” game.
*No endorsement of products or companies is intended, nor is criticism of unnamed products or companies implied.
What Mainers are Asking About Jumping Worms and What We Can Tell Them
Article and photos courtesy of Maine Department of Agriculture, Conservation and Forestry
Following a recent two-day jumping worm workshop hosted by the Maine Department of Agriculture, Conservation and Forestry (DACF), it is clear that jumping worms are a top concern for Maine gardeners and land managers. This event brought together a knowledgeable lineup of leading researchers from across North America to share the latest science and management strategies.
While the first established populations in the state were discovered as recently as 2014, these invasive pests are now considered widespread and have been confirmed in 13 of Maine’s 16 counties. With hundreds of questions submitted by workshop registrants, several key themes emerged regarding how to identify, manage, and prevent the spread of these invasive worms.
Identification: “Is this a jumping worm?”
Many Mainers are concerned about distinguishing jumping worms from other species of earthworms.
- Monitor with a Mustard Drench: To see if jumping worms are present at your location, mix 1/3 cup of ground mustard with a gallon of water and pour it directly on the soil (in a forested setting, brush away leaf litter first); this irritates the worms and brings them to the surface for identification.
- The Timing: Because they are annuals (having a lifespan of only one year), juveniles appear in May and June and are very small and hard to identify. It is best to wait until late July or August to confirm their identity once they develop their distinctive collar.
- The Look: Look for a milky white or gray collar (clitellum) that is smooth, flat, and completely encircles the body like a ring. In contrast, European earthworms have a raised, saddle-shaped clitellum that only goes partway around.
- The Behavior: Jumping worms do not crawl like typical earthworms; they thrash vigorously and wriggle like snakes when touched.
Spread & Prevention: “How do I stop them?”
The most common way jumping worms move is through human activity, particularly the movement of soil, compost, mulch, and nursery plants.
- The “Hidden” Threat: The worms themselves die each winter, but they leave behind tiny, soil-colored cocoons that are nearly impossible to see.
- Arrive Clean, Leave Clean: Cocoons can hitchhike in the treads of hiking boots and tires. Using boot brushes at trailheads and cleaning tools before moving between garden beds is essential.
- Plant Sales & Nursery Stock: When possible, choose bare-root plants and rinse the roots into a bucket to ensure no cocoons are hiding in the root ball.
- Contain and Return: Always dump the wash water and mud back onto the original site where you collected the plants or soil; this ensures you aren’t accidentally moving “hitchhiking” cocoons to a new, uninfested area. If you need to dispose of the material, wash your gear over a bucket to capture the sediment, let the soil settle before pouring off the water, and once the remaining mud dries, bag and solarize it (heating it to at least 104°F) before putting it in the trash.
Soil & Garden Impacts: “Will they ruin my vegetables?”
Registrants frequently asked if they could still grow food in infested soil.
- Soil Texture: Jumping worms eat organic matter so quickly that they turn soil into a dry, loose consistency resembling coffee grounds or “Nerds” candy.
Soil affected by jumping worm feeding resembles coffee grounds. Photo by Maine Forest Service Entomologist Brittany Schappach. - Nutrient Issues: While their castings are nutrient-dense, the nutrients stay on the soil surface where many plant roots cannot reach them, and the loose soil is prone to erosion.
- Soil & Garden Impacts: Many Mainers wonder if they can still grow food in infested soil, and while the answer is yes, it requires determining your goals and desired outcomes. Because jumping worms consume organic matter so quickly, gardeners often find they must amend their soil more frequently with compost or mulch to replace what the worms have eaten. However, adding this bulk organic material serves as a continuous food source that can sustain or even increase the jumping worm population in your garden. Ultimately, effective integrated pest management is about weighing the risks and benefits of each approach and making choices that align with what matters most to you in your garden.
Management: “How do I kill them?”
This remains the most difficult question. Currently, there are no pesticides legally registered for the control of jumping worms in the United States. While it is tempting to try “home remedies” or DIY concoctions, experts strongly advise against this.
- The Label is the Law: It is a violation of federal law to use any pesticide in a manner inconsistent with its labeling. If a product does not specifically list “jumping worms” on its label, using it to kill them can have unintended consequences for your soil, your plants, and non-target organisms like pollinators. Would you use a medicine that is labeled to treat one disease for another, if it had never been shown to work on that disease and the risks and benefits had never been determined?
- The “Natural” Misconception: Many gardeners ask about using “natural” products like tea seed meal or soap bark (saponins), which are often sold as fertilizers. However, any product used with the intent to control a pest is legally considered a pesticide. Even though these natural materials are being researched for their efficacy against jumping worms, they are not yet approved for this use, and using them as a vermicide (worm pesticide) remains off-label.
- Why DIY is Risky: Concocting your own treatments can lead to phytotoxicity (harming your plants’ roots or foliage) or damaging the delicate soil food web.
- Why Chickens Can’t Solve a Jumping Worm Problem: While it is tempting to hope that birds will handle the infestation, the researchers suggested that chickens and other birds are not a reliable or necessarily safe solution for managing jumping worms. Jumping worms are bioaccumulators, meaning they consume and concentrate toxic trace metals (like lead or arsenic) from the soil. Metals like arsenic occur naturally in many Maine soils, and lead may be present from old paint or natural sources. Chickens that eat earthworms could pass those trace metals into their meat and eggs. Even if chickens find the adult worms delicious, they also do not target the small cocoons hidden in the soil. Because these cocoons are the primary way the population survives the winter and “seed banks” for future years, the chickens are only addressing a small fraction of the total population.
Things you can do right now:
- Solarization: In Maine, this works best in the peak of summer when the sun is strongest. Spread a thin layer of infested soil, about 6–8 inches deep, onto a dark tarp and cover it with a clear drop cloth, sealing the edges to create a “package.” Place a simple soil thermometer in the center to track temperature. Research suggests reaching 104°F for at least two hours can kill the worms and egg-containing cocoons. If you don’t have a soil thermometer, plan to leave the covered soil in full sun for at least three days. On clear, hot summer days, a thin layer will often reach target temperatures within one to two days, but the extra time helps ensure consistent heating throughout the pile and improves your chances of success.
- Hand Removal: For small populations, you can hand-pick worms and drop them into a bucket of soapy water to kill them.
Reporting: “What should I do if I find them?”
State officials are still tracking the spread of jumping worms across Maine. If you suspect you have them:
- Check the Map: Visit the Maine DACF Jumping Worms in Maine webpage to see if your town has already been confirmed.
- Report New Findings: If your area is not yet marked as positive, use the online report form and be sure to include clear photos of the worm’s clitellum for confirmation. It is best to put the worm against a solid surface and take multiple photos of the entire worm for submission.
- “What can the state do?”: Currently, jumping worms are illegal to import into Maine, but they are not classified as a “regulated invasive species.” This status means the Maine Department of Agriculture, Conservation, and Forestry (DACF) is limited by law to education and outreach rather than enforcement or eradication programs. Because the species often goes under-reported, the state actively seeks reports from the public to better map their presence, particularly if you suspect a specific business or non-profit organization is unintentionally spreading them. While you can reach out to the state horticulturist Gary Fish with these concerns, the DACF cannot guarantee regulatory action or penalties against organizations due to the current lack of a regulated status. Ultimately, your reports serve as vital “citizen science” that helps officials understand the true extent of the spread even when legal regulatory tools are not available.
MeshTech: A New Strategy for Managing Knotweed
By Samuel Foye and Chad Hammer; Maine Natural Areas Program
Photos used with permission from the Maine Natural Areas Program
Knotweed (Reynoutria spp.) is a severely invasive plant originating from Eastern Asia. Introduced to the East Coast in the late 1800s as an ornamental, knotweed has since become ubiquitous across North America, reaching over 40 US states and 8 Canadian provinces. Knotweed has proven extremely detrimental to a wide variety of ecosystems in which it has established. Forming tall, dense thickets, knotweed shades out native plants, preventing them from growing. Additionally, knotweed is allelopathic, meaning it releases organic compounds into the soil that inhibits the growth of native plant species.
Knotweed also increases erosion along streams and riverbanks. By shading out native groundcover species and reducing the diverse root reinforcement provided by native species in riparian zones, riverbanks lose considerably more soil when infested with stands of knotweed (Hammer 2019, Matte et al. 2021). This erosion can increase turbidity of waterways, potentially affecting fish and other aquatic species (Henley et al. 2000). The reduction of native plants in riparian zones paired with winter dieback of knotweed stems also leaves riverbanks extremely vulnerable to winter and early spring flooding. This degradation of the riparian area allows floods to carry knotweed propagules downstream, where they can colonize and increase erosion in new areas (Colleran et al. 2020).
Historically, management of knotweed has been extremely time-and-resource intensive. Large populations require years of consistent treatment, often combining mechanical and chemical approaches to be effective. This commitment to diligent, multi-year mechanical treatment can be discouraging and can lead many to abandon treatment plans before completion.
Developed by Dr. Eric Donnelly, the MeshTech management technique has produced promising results at managing the growth and spread of knotweed while dramatically reducing labor inputs. This method involves cutting knotweed stems down to the soil level and laying ½-inch galvanized steel hardware fencing over the cut stems.
When knotweed resprouts, it grows through the openings in the fencing. As stems mature and thicken, the metal fencing will begin to cut into the stems. The knotweed will continue to grow through the fencing, effectively girdling itself at its base. This method aims to impact knotweed’s nutrient pathways while also damaging the structural integrity of the plant. Alone, this method cannot eradicate knotweed populations. However, the MeshTech method can potentially reduce the health and vigor of knotweed, thus reducing the amount of cutting required in a growing season and the rate of spread in an area.
At the Pleasant Hill Preserve in Scarborough, the Scarborough Land Trust (SLT) has begun implementing the MeshTech method to manage a portion of their knotweed infestation. An effort led by SLT’s Stewardship Director Sami Wolf and Nathan Hjort, owner of Absolutely Complete Property Services, initial results indicate that the hardware fencing is proving successful. The knotweed forced to grow through the hardware fencing at Pleasant Hill Preserve showed clear signs of strain. monstrated significantly stunted growth and had even begun flowering early, an indication that a plant is under stress. While knotweed struggled to grow through the ½-inch holes, native flora had begun to sprout up through the hardware fencing. Other knotweed management practices, such as tarping or mowing, often discourage the growth of native species in a management area. Over time, the presence of native flora could provide an extra level of biotic resistance that could help slow the growth of knotweed and help kickstart native revegetation efforts. Eventually, supplemental plantings of native woody species can take place by cutting openings in the fence to allow for these larger species to grow. The fence can also be easily staked down, preventing knotweed or moving water from moving it out of place.
It is important to note that knotweed is a resilient plant and there is no single management action alone that will completely eliminate a population. The most effective knotweed management strategies use creative combinations of multiple approaches. Knotweed is a rhizomatous species, meaning it has an extensive, underground nutrient storage system made up of horizontal rhizomes that store nutrients. Draining this underground nutrient storage is the key to effectively managing an infestation. Consistent cutting of knotweed forces the plant to exhaust its below-ground resources. By combining a cutting regimen with the MeshTech method, land managers could potentially see a significant reduction in their management timeline.
The effectiveness of this method provides promising implications for the future of knotweed management in Maine. Paired with consistent management, the MeshTech method could provide Maine with another tool to mitigate the spread of knotweed and reduce our reliance on chemical treatments.
Sources:
Colleran, Brian, et al. “Invasive Japanese Knotweed (Reynoutria japonica Houtt.) and Related Knotweeds as Catalysts for Streambank Erosion.” River Research and Applications, vol. 36, no. 9, 17 Sept. 2020, https://doi.org/10.1002/rra.3725.
Hammer, Chad F. “The impacts of terrestrial invasive plants on streams and natural and restored riparian forests in Northern New England.” Master’s thesis, University of New Hampshire, 2019.
Henley, W. F., et al. “Effects of Sedimentation and Turbidity on Lotic Food Webs: A Concise Review for Natural Resource Managers.” Reviews in Fisheries Science, vol. 8, no. 2, Apr. 2000, pp. 125–139, https://doi.org/10.1080/10641260091129198.
Matte, Rébecca, et al. “Japanese Knotweed Increases Soil Erosion on Riverbanks.” River Research and Applications, vol. 38, no. 3, 11 Dec. 2021, pp. 561–572, https://doi.org/10.1002/rra.3918.
Maine Weather and Climate Overview
By Sean Birkel, Assistant Extension Professor, Maine State Climatologist, Cooperative Extension, Climate Change Institute, University of Maine
March Recap: Aside from a cold wave in the first three days of the month, March 2026 has so far been much warmer than average. Most notable is a warm wave that peaked on the 10th with temperatures reaching to around 70 degrees Fahrenheit across the southern half of Maine. Some stations set a daily record high. Another warm wave developed several days later in association with a storm system tracking over the Great Lakes region, producing strong south-southeast winds on the 16th and 17th with gusts above 40 mph (above 50 mph in some places). The moist southerly flow brought temperatures into the 50s statewide and produced 1–2 inches of rainfall across the coast and southern interior. Aside from a cold wave on the 28th with daytime highs below freezing, the last week in March was generally seasonable for early spring.
Drought Update: Precipitation was below normal statewide this winter, and moderate to severe drought conditions persist across the majority of Maine; extreme drought continues to affect a portion of coastal Cumberland and York counties. According to the Maine Cooperative Snow Survey, snow water equivalent values measured March 22–25 rank either lowest 10% or lowest 25% (compared to the last 20 years) across the majority of the state. Only small areas Downeast and in northern Aroostook rank middle 50%. The very diminished snowpack owes to wintertime precipitation deficits plus considerable melting during the warm spell March 7–17.
Forecast & Outlook: April begins with an active weather pattern. The U.S. and European global forecast models show three storm systems that could develop between the 1st and 6th, bringing rain, mixed precipitation, or snow. The third system, perhaps arriving on the 5th or 6th, could produce mostly rain due to the storm tracking across the Great Lakes and into Quebec, wherein warm air would be drawn up from the south. Visit weather.gov for the most up-to-date forecasts. Severe weather alerts and other guidance can be found on the National Weather Service Gray and Caribou forecast office winter weather pages.
The 1-month outlook for April shows equal chances of above or below normal conditions for both temperature and precipitation. This winter’s La Niña is fading and neutral conditions expected to develop in the next month. El Niño is then likely to emerge sometime this summer and persist through the end of the year.
Maine Statewide 2026 Temperature & Precipitation Rankings
From NCEI Climate at a Glance
- Mar: Monthly summary net yet available
- Winter (Dec–Jan–Feb): 60th Warmest (near average), 5th Driest (much below average)
- Feb: 52nd Warmest (near average), 2nd Driest (much below average)
- Jan: 54th Warmest (near average), 28th Driest (below average)
- Dec: 44th Coldest (below average), 59th Wettest (near average)
For additional information, including historical temperature and precipitation data, weather forecasts, and seasonal climate outlooks, visit the Maine Climate Office website.
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Maine Home Garden News was created in response to a continued increase in requests for information on gardening and includes timely and seasonal tips, as well as research-based articles on all aspects of gardening. Articles are written by UMaine Extension specialists, educators, and horticulture professionals, as well as Master Gardener Volunteers from around Maine. The following staff and volunteer team take great care editing content, designing the web and email platforms, maintaining email lists, and getting hard copies mailed to those who don’t have access to the internet: Abby Zelz*, Barbara Harrity*, Kate Garland, Mary Michaud, Matt Thomas, Michelle Snowden, Naomi Jacobs*, Phoebe Call*, and Wendy Robertson.
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