\nHow to Build a Zig Zag Garden (4-Post Trellised Garden)<\/a>
\nPlant Identification Apps<\/a>
\nBeet Growing 101\u00a0<\/a>
\nBackyard bird of the month: Red-Eyed Vireo<\/a>
\nMainely Dish: Rhubarb Muffins<\/a>
\nAsk the Expert<\/a>
\nMaine Weather and Climate Overview (May 2024)<\/a><\/p>\n
\n
<\/a>May Is the Month to . . .<\/h3>\nBy Barbara Harrity, Penobscot County Master Gardener Volunteer<\/em><\/p>\nThe\u00a0sun\u00a0is\u00a0bright, \u2013 the\u00a0air\u00a0is\u00a0clear,<\/p>\n
The\u00a0darting\u00a0swallows\u00a0soar\u00a0and\u00a0sing.
\nAnd\u00a0from\u00a0the\u00a0stately\u00a0elms\u00a0I\u00a0hear
\nThe\u00a0bluebird\u00a0prophesying\u00a0Spring.<\/p>\n
\u2014Henry Wadsworth Longfellow<\/p>\n
Thank Maine\u2019s Henry Wadsworth Longfellow for helping us appreciate this beautiful month: \u201cFor oh, it is not always May!\u201d Nevertheless, it\u2019s a busy month for gardeners, so here are some ideas for your to-do list.<\/p>\n
In the vegetable garden:<\/strong><\/h4>\nTransplant seedlings. <\/strong>It\u2019s time to transplant lettuce, spinach, parsley, onions, broccoli, kale, radish, and mustard greens seedlings into your garden.<\/p>\nDirect seed in the garden. <\/strong>Sow seeds of cool-season vegetables such as beets, carrots, peas, and Swiss chard directly into the garden.<\/p>\nContinue starting seeds indoors. <\/strong>Early May is the time to start seeds indoors of plants that don\u2019t tolerate frost, such as tomatoes, peppers, basil, and cucumbers, and plan to transplant them after all danger of frost has passed (typically late May or early June in Maine). Late May is the time to start fall brassica seeds indoors for transplanting in late June.<\/p>\nHarden off seedlings<\/strong><\/a> before planting.<\/strong> Seedlings (both home raised and purchased) benefit from being gradually exposed to increased sun, wind, and cooler temper<\/p>\n![\"a](\"https:\/\/extension.umaine.edu\/gardening\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2024\/04\/Seedlings-300x225.jpg\")
Seedlings being hardened off prior to planting. Photo by Kate Garland<\/figcaption><\/figure>\natures. Simply move plants into increasingly exposed sites over the course of a week or two while being prepared to bring them indoors when nighttime temperatures dip.<\/p>\n
Apply nitrogen to emerging <\/strong>garlic<\/strong><\/a> plants.<\/strong> Sidedress rows with 1 tablespoon of bloodmeal (or an equivalent source nitrogen) for every six plants.<\/p>\nSow an early-season <\/strong>cover crop<\/strong><\/a> to build soil organic matter.<\/strong> A mix of peas, oats, and vetch can be a winning combination to sow in early May, while late May can be a great time to sow buckwheat. Even if you don\u2019t grow these crops to maturity (early August), they will improve the soil ecosystem and help suppress weeds.<\/p>\nIn the flower garden:<\/strong><\/h4>\nMulch perennial beds. <\/strong>Use dark bark mulch on your perennial beds to conserve moisture and prevent weeds. Avoid covering the crowns of herbaceous plants and the trunks of woody plants.<\/p>\nStake peonies and other plants needing support.<\/strong> It\u2019s easier to stake them now before the plants get unmanageable. The Maine Home Garden News from June 2021 has an informative article about extending the peony season<\/a>. Definitely worth a read!<\/p>\nLearn how to attract butterflies and other pollinators to your yard.<\/strong> For more information, see Bulletin #7151, Landscaping for Butterflies in Maine<\/a>, and Bulletin #7153, Understanding Native Bees, the Great Pollinators: Enhancing Their Habitat in Maine<\/a>. Or consider taking part in Extension\u2019s Pollinator-Friendly Garden Certification<\/a>.<\/u><\/p>\nIn the fruit garden:<\/strong><\/h4>\nFertilize raspberries and blueberries.<\/strong> Apply about 2 lbs. actual nitrogen (N); phosphate (P2O5); and potash (K2O) per 1000 square feet (or 500 feet of row), i.e., 20 lbs. of 10-10-10. For organic substitutes use compost or rock powders. For more information, check out Bulletin #2066, Growing Raspberries and Blackberries<\/a> or Bulletin #2253, Growing Highbush Blueberries<\/a>.<\/p>\nAround and about:<\/strong><\/h4>\nRecordkeeping\u2014keep it up!<\/strong> Okay, you created your garden plan, noted which seeds you started when, and now comes the hard part: continuing to write down your observations of plant growth and yield, and insect and disease problems. A good recordkeeping task for May is to assess your spring bulbs as they flower. Mark the bulbs that need to be divided this fall with a stake in the garden or a note on your garden map.<\/p>\nForage for fiddleheads and dandelions.<\/strong> Depending on where in Maine you live, early May can be a good time to forage for fiddleheads and dandelions. Dandelions are ubiquitous, but be sure to harvest from areas where pesticides haven\u2019t been applied. Ostrich Fern Fiddleheads, Bulletin #2540<\/a> will help you identify the tender, coiled shoots of the Matteucia struthiopteris<\/em> fern and harvest them properly and sustainably. The Maine Department of Education has compiled a collection of recipes featuring dandelion greens, f<\/p>\n![\"bright](\"https:\/\/extension.umaine.edu\/gardening\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2024\/04\/Japanese-barberry-300x225.jpg\")
Japanese barberry growing in park in southern Maine. Photo by Kate Garland<\/figcaption><\/figure>\niddleheads, and sorrel, Wild Spring Greens: Wabanaki Foods in Maine Schools<\/a> (pdf). Additionally, Facts on Fiddleheads, Bulletin #4198<\/a> offers tips on cooking, preserving, and using fiddleheads.<\/a><\/p>\nNotice invasive plants. <\/strong>Many invasive plant species produce leaves earlier than their native counterparts, making them easier to spot and mark for future removal.<\/p>\nIf you suspect you have uninvited plant guests, consider trying a plant ID app noted in the article below and then confirm the identification and develop a management plan using the fact sheets linked on the Maine Department of Agriculture, Conservation and Forestry\u2019s invasive plant lists<\/a>.<\/p>\nEnjoy an evening frog chorus.<\/strong> By early May, wood frogs<\/a> and spring peepers<\/a> will be singing from vernal pools and small ponds, creating a cacophony of high-pitched peeps (peepers) and low-pitched \u201cwrunks\u201d (wood frogs). According to Maine Amphibians and Reptiles<\/em> (University of Maine Press, 1999), \u201cIn peak season, a chorus of peepers can be heard half a mile away.\u201d The call of wood frogs does not carry very far, and their peak breeding season is a few weeks earlier than the peepers\u2019.<\/p>\n
\n<\/a>How to Build a Zig Zag Garden (4-Post Trellised Garden)<\/h3>\nBy Richard Brzozowski, retired Extension Professor<\/em><\/p>\nA zig zag garden could be useful for people who have trouble kneeling or squatting. The zig zag garden is built for specific crops that climb: such as cucumber, indeterminate tomatoes, pole beans, sugar snap peas, butternut squash, climbing varieties of peppers, luffa gourds, as well as flowers such as sweet peas and morning glory. You will want to locate your zig zag garden in a sunny location that is well drained with soil deep enough to set the four posts at least 18\u201d deep.<\/p>\n
Materials needed for a 4-post zig zag garden:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- Four 8\u2019 posts (4\u201dx4\u201d)<\/li>\n
- Three 5\/4\u201dx10\u2019 cedar decking (cedar is a natural self-preserving wood). 2\u201dx10\u2019 rough-sawn hemlock (pictured here) is a good substitute for cedar.<\/li>\n
- One 16\u2019 cattle panel (48\u201d or 50\u201d tall)<\/li>\n
- Twenty-four fasteners (non-corrosive 3\u201d to 3 \u00bd\u201d in length) \u2013 screws work better than nails for this type of construction. Large exterior screws (like GRK) or lag bolts with 3\/8\u201d diameter and 3\u201d to 3 \u00bd\u201d in length will be strong and long lasting.<\/li>\n
- Twelve eye screws (1\u201d x 3 \u00bd\u201d should suffice)<\/li>\n
- Zip ties (to fasten panel to the eye screws) 10\u201d to 12\u201d<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Tools needed:<\/strong><\/p>\n![\"wooden](\"https:\/\/extension.umaine.edu\/gardening\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2024\/04\/Squash-seedling-300x200.jpg\")
Photo by Art Shaw<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n- Measuring tape<\/li>\n
- Marker (pencil)<\/li>\n
- Post hole digger (or spade)<\/li>\n
- Saw (hand saw or portable circular saw)<\/li>\n
- Carpenter\u2019s square<\/li>\n
- Drill (with bits for drilling holes and for screwing)<\/li>\n
- Large screwdriver (to be used for setting the eye screws)<\/li>\n
- Flat-sided file (to smooth any sharp edges of the cattle panel pieces)<\/li>\n
- Level (2\u2019 or 4\u2019 in length) to plumb each garden panel when set into holes<\/li>\n
- Hacksaw or bolt cutter (to cut the 16\u2019 cattle panel into three equal pieces)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Steps to building a zig zag garden:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- Cut the three 10\u2019 boards into six 5\u2019 lengths.<\/li>\n
- Lay out two 4×4\u201d posts on a flat surface (floor, driveway, or ground).<\/li>\n
- Fasten one board squarely (use the carpenter\u2019s square) to the side at the top of the posts using at least two fasteners on each post. It is suggested to first drill pilot holes in the boards to avoid cracking the wood with the fasteners.<\/li>\n
- Measure and mark 5\u2019 down on the posts and squarely fasten the next 5\u2019 board onto the posts (this board will be closest to the ground when set in place).<\/li>\n
- Repeat this construction with the remaining two posts.<\/li>\n
- On the inside of each unit and the center of the post, drill 4 pilot holes for the eye screws. It is recommended that the screw eye holes be drilled about 10\u201d and 54\u201d from the top of each post (12 pilot holes total). A large screwdriver is useful in screwing in the eye screw by placing the screwdriver through the eye of each eye screw and turning the eye screw clockwise.\u00a0 The screwdriver provides leverage.<\/li>\n
- With the bolt cutter or hacksaw, cut the 16\u2019 cattle panel into three equal sections. These will be about 5\u201d 4\u201d in length.\u00a0 Make sure the piece left after cutting has no sharp edges. Use a file to smooth off any sharpness after cutting.<\/li>\n
- Attach one cattle panel piece to the eye screw eye using the zip ties.<\/li>\n
- With the post hole digger or spade, dig two holes 5 feet apart and from 18\u201d to 24\u201ddeep.\n
![\"](\"https:\/\/extension.umaine.edu\/gardening\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2024\/04\/raised-bed-300x225.jpg\")
Photo by Art Shaw<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n- Lift the panel and set it into the two holes. Level and plumb the panel (all sides) using the level (horizontally and vertically).<\/li>\n
- With a 5\u2019 board, lay the board out to select the correct spot to dig the remaining two holes. This is an important step. Be accurate as possible as you want this layout to be square (90 degrees).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
\n- With the post hole digger or spade, dig two holes 5 feet apart and from 18\u201d to 24\u201ddeep. Once the two holes are dug at the same depth as the first two holes, place the second panel into the holes. At this point and using the exterior fasteners, connect the two panels with the two remaining boards \u2013 squarely and as close to plumb as possible.<\/li>\n
- Check squareness, plumbness, and levelness of the zig zag garden panels. When level and plumb, fill in the remaining two holes and pack all holes to stabilize the unit. The two panels should be connected at 90 degrees (square).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Estimated cost of materials <\/strong>(March 2024):<\/p>\n\n- Four 4\u201dx4\u201dx8\u2019 posts \u2013 $10 to $50 each. (cedar posts – $50 each): $40.00 to $200<\/strong><\/li>\n
- Three 5\/4\u201dx10\u2019 long cedar boards – $14.00 each: $42.00<\/strong><\/li>\n
- One 16\u2019x 50\u201d cattle panel – $40.00: $40.00<\/strong><\/li>\n
- Twenty-four 5\/16\u201dor 3\/8\u201d\u00a0 3 \u00bd long fasteners – $0.75 to1.50 each: $18.00 to $36.00<\/strong><\/li>\n
- Twelve 1\u201d by 3\u201d eye screws – $1.00 each: $12.00<\/strong><\/li>\n
- Zip Ties (one bag): $4.00<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Total: $150.00 to $334.00<\/strong><\/p>\n
\n<\/a>Plant Identification Apps<\/h3>\nBy Jonathan Foster, Horticulture Outreach Professional,\u00a0 UMaIne Cooperative Extension<\/em><\/p>\nSpotting a botanical oddity while walking in the woods, being blown away by some beauty in a blooming garden, or spotting a plant specimen miraculously thriving in the exact conditions of <\/span>that eternal problem spot<\/span><\/i> in your own yard where nothing grows \u2013 we\u2019ve all been in this situation before. What is that plant?! Mobile apps have revolutionized horticultural recognition in the course of everyday life, and the good news is that the technology for plant identification mobile applications has come a long way in a relatively short period of time. Mostly gone are the 2018 days of checking an interesting little sundew at the Orono Bog Walk and being told it\u2019s an endangered tropical epiphyte from the other side of the globe (ok, that\u2019s extreme, but anyone who experimented with the early plant apps can feel my hyperbolic pain).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nFor a more objective treatment than my anecdotal experience (which I\u2019ll provide below), I would like to point readers to a <\/span>series of fantastic use surveys<\/span><\/a> by Dr. Erin Hill, of the Michigan State University Cooperative Extension. Since 2018, she has asked university students to evaluate a total of 16 identification apps, with the best performers rolling over to the next year\u2019s group. You can see a sample set of the pictures they used in the tests, as well as differential results from the various apps, in the link above. Their evaluation listed complete accuracy rates (first place 73%, last place just over 30%), partial accuracy rates, and incorrect rates, and the complete and partial accuracy scores were also combined into a subjective \u201chelpfulness\u201d score. For three consecutive years now, <\/span>PictureThis<\/span><\/a> has outperformed the competitors on overall accuracy, helpfulness, and accuracy in plant sub-groups. The runner-up for their most recent survey was <\/span>PlantStory<\/span><\/a>, followed by <\/span>PlantNet<\/span><\/a>, <\/span>PlantIn<\/span><\/a>, <\/span>iNaturalist<\/span><\/a> (of note because it uses a crowd-sourcing approach to identification), and <\/span>Google Lens<\/span><\/a>.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nIn my own anecdotal experience, I am a pretty big fan of PictureThis. I find it to be accurate far more often than not, and it\u2019s easy and intuitive to use. My biggest criticisms are the frequent, somewhat intrusive attempts to upsell you to the full-featured version (which I hesitate to paint as too much of a negative, as I believe fully in the developers\u2019 right to charge for their hard work and a good product) and its winner-takes-all approach to identification. You are presented with the software\u2019s best match and if it doesn\u2019t seem correct, there isn\u2019t much else to it for the end user.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nI have recently begun testing PlantNet, which is also intuitive and easy to use, and which instead presents a list of high scoring potential matches for the plant being identified. It also lets you choose to focus the identification process on different plant organs, which can help when you are searching out of season. The downside is a slight drop in accuracy, or a situation in which a slate of relatively equally scoring species are given and the user must decide which among them is accurate. Among other resources and training to bolster results, I use both of these apps in my professional life\u2026and I certainly use them while strolling with the family for anything I\u2019m unfamiliar with.<\/span><\/p>\nWhen you select your app, remember to think not only of accuracy (let\u2019s be honest, the most important factor!), but also ease of use, how convenient\/informative the user interface is, cost, and the extent to which you\u2019re being upsold inside the free versions of software. As always, identifications are most accurate if cross-checked with definitive sources such as the <\/span>UMaine Cooperative Extension plant identification services<\/span><\/a> or a website like the <\/span>USDA Plant Database<\/span><\/a> or <\/span>GoBotany.com<\/span><\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\nInformation in this publication is provided purely for educational purposes. No responsibility is assumed for any problems associated with the use of products or services mentioned. No endorsement of products or companies is intended, nor is criticism of unnamed products or companies implied.<\/em><\/p>\n
\n<\/a>Beet Growing 101<\/h3>\nBy Tricia Griffith, Master Gardener Volunteer Intern <\/span><\/i><\/em><\/p>\nBeets! You love \u2018em or you don\u2019t love \u2018em! Maybe you find yourself firmly in the \u201clove \u2018em\u201d camp, but haven\u2019t been sure about growing them. Let\u2019s dig into some beet growing basics.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nThe beet (<\/span>Beta vulgaris<\/span><\/i>) is a member of the family Amaranthaceae (loosely pronounced am-a-ranth-a-see). This makes them cousins of plants like amaranth, spinach, chard, and quinoa. Native to Europe and the Mediterranean, beets are now grown almost everywhere and come in a wide variety of shapes and colors.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n![\"smiling](\"https:\/\/extension.umaine.edu\/gardening\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2024\/04\/Beets-300x225.jpg\")
Washing and bundling beets for Maine Harvest for Hunger donation at Rogers Farm in Old Town. Photo by Kate Garland<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nAs always, a <\/span>soil test<\/span> will help you figure out what soil amendments you will need before you start seeding. Beets prefer a soil pH of 6.0 – 7.0, but will tolerate a slightly higher pH, and will not thrive at a pH lower than 6.0. Beets like loose, well-drained soil. If you have a lot of clay or your soil is prone to getting a crust on top, mix in plenty of organic matter before sowing your seeds (compost, shredded leaves, etc\u2026).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nOnce your spring soil temperature has reached about 40\u00b0F (about 2-3 weeks before the last frost date), you can direct sow beet seeds into your garden as follows:\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\n- Clear rocks from the area you want to seed.\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n
- Create a furrow about \u00bc to \u00bd inch deep – or make small holes 1\u201d apart. \u25cf Each row should be about 12-18\u201d apart.\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n
- If the soil is dry, trickle some water into the bottom of the furrows to give your beet seeds a good moist start (I know you love that word!).\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/li>\n
- Once you have your moist (not soggy) furrows, sow your seeds 1\u201d apart and lightly cover with soil.\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n
- Water gently until the soil is saturated but not soggy.\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Beet Growing Tip 1: <\/b>If you\u2019re having one of THOSE springs with torrential rains, prop up a board over the top of your row of seeds to prevent rain from washing them away. Remove the board as soon as they start to sprout.<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\nA beet \u201cseed\u201d is actually a fruit with a cluster of seeds inside, so don\u2019t be surprised when several sprouts pop up (in 7-14 days) where you put one seed. Once the seedlings are about 2\u201d high, thin them so they are 3\u201d apart. If you like, try planting each row about 2 weeks apart, so you have a succession of new beets throughout the summer.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nKeep the plants evenly watered throughout the season; mulch alongside the rows to preserve moisture. Too much moisture fluctuation can cause the beet root to crack. Excess moisture may lead to root rot. This <\/span>Utah State Extension article<\/span> has a helpful list of beet growing problems and their causes\/solutions.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nHarvest beets 60-80 days after sowing. Most varieties of beets grow to about 1-\u00bd inches wide. Some can get up to 3\u201d with enough space and moisture, but if much bigger they\u2019re going to be tough and woody. To harvest, use a garden fork to loosen up the soil, then pull the beet out by the leaves. Harvest the last of your beets before heavy frost or freezing.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nBeet Growing Tip 2: <\/b>Eat your greens! Similar to spinach or chard, beet greens are rich in vitamin K, copper, manganese, iron, and calcium. Save the beet greens you thin or trim and toss them in a salad or use them like you would spinach or chard.\u00a0<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\nTo store your beets, cut off the greens and wash them. They will store at 32\u00b0F, 95% relative humidity for 2-4 months. Or prepare them your favorite way and freeze or can them.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nBeet Growing Tip 3<\/b>: Beets are a biennial plant. This means they will grow roots and leaves the first year, then flower (and produce seeds) the second year. If you want to try collecting and saving your own beet seeds, see if you can leave a few in the ground until the next season, depending on your winter climate. <\/span>Seed Savers Exchange<\/span> has a great detailed section on saving beet seeds.\u00a0<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\nSo now, if you\u2019re in the beet lover camp, you know it\u2019s not super hard to grow some of your own! If you\u2019re not sure about them, stop by your local farmer\u2019s market this summer and grab a few and try roasting them. We think you\u2019ll like them!<\/span><\/p>\n
\n<\/a>Backyard Bird of the Month: Red-Eyed Vireo<\/h3>\nBy\u00a0Maine Audubon Field Naturalist Andy Kapinos<\/span><\/i><\/em><\/p>\nHere I am! Where are you? Way up here! In the tree!<\/span><\/i> So goes the song of the Red-eyed Vireo, heard in nearly every forested area between Kittery and Fort Kent from May until early autumn. True neotropical migrants, Red-eyed Vireos spend the nonbreeding season in the Amazon Basin, especially in Colombia, Brazil, Venezuela, Ecuador, and Peru. Most depart South America during April, and over the course of a few weeks or a month, make their way up through Central America and the southeastern US, migrating on clear nights and refueling during the day by feasting on the abundance of newly-emerged insects. The first males can reach Maine by the first week of May, but the majority arrive in the second and third weeks, just in time for the emergence of leaves and insects in the canopy of our forests.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n![\"gray](\"https:\/\/extension.umaine.edu\/gardening\/wp-content\/uploads\/sites\/5\/2024\/04\/Red-Eyed-Vireo-300x215.jpg\")
Red-Eyed Vireo Photo by Jeff Schmoyer<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nThese canopy-dwellers are heard far more often than they are seen, and possess a huge vocal repertoire, combining various \u201csyllables\u201d into \u201cphrases\u201d that don\u2019t repeat. In fact, there is often no similarity between the songs of males whose territories are right next to each other. While the males generally sing from treetops; Red-eyed Vireos forage and nest in the mid- and understory, and require forest habitat with layers of native shrubs and small trees. <\/span>Their nests are usually built at these lower levels, with layers of foliage above to hide the nest from predators. <\/span><\/p>\nThey raise their young on insects, especially caterpillars and other larvae, before eating increasing amounts of fruit later in the summer, which they subsist on throughout the nonbreeding season. The return of Red-eyed Vireos to their breeding territories in Maine is a yearly reminder that conserving healthy forest ecosystems is important not only here at home, but also in the neotropical forests where they spend the rest of their lives.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/a>Mainely Dish: Rhubarb Muffins<\/h3>\n
The\u00a0sun\u00a0is\u00a0bright, \u2013 the\u00a0air\u00a0is\u00a0clear,<\/p>\n
The\u00a0darting\u00a0swallows\u00a0soar\u00a0and\u00a0sing.
\nAnd\u00a0from\u00a0the\u00a0stately\u00a0elms\u00a0I\u00a0hear
\nThe\u00a0bluebird\u00a0prophesying\u00a0Spring.<\/p>\n
\u2014Henry Wadsworth Longfellow<\/p>\n
Thank Maine\u2019s Henry Wadsworth Longfellow for helping us appreciate this beautiful month: \u201cFor oh, it is not always May!\u201d Nevertheless, it\u2019s a busy month for gardeners, so here are some ideas for your to-do list.<\/p>\n
In the vegetable garden:<\/strong><\/h4>\nTransplant seedlings. <\/strong>It\u2019s time to transplant lettuce, spinach, parsley, onions, broccoli, kale, radish, and mustard greens seedlings into your garden.<\/p>\nDirect seed in the garden. <\/strong>Sow seeds of cool-season vegetables such as beets, carrots, peas, and Swiss chard directly into the garden.<\/p>\nContinue starting seeds indoors. <\/strong>Early May is the time to start seeds indoors of plants that don\u2019t tolerate frost, such as tomatoes, peppers, basil, and cucumbers, and plan to transplant them after all danger of frost has passed (typically late May or early June in Maine). Late May is the time to start fall brassica seeds indoors for transplanting in late June.<\/p>\nHarden off seedlings<\/strong><\/a> before planting.<\/strong> Seedlings (both home raised and purchased) benefit from being gradually exposed to increased sun, wind, and cooler temper<\/p>\nSeedlings being hardened off prior to planting. Photo by Kate Garland<\/figcaption><\/figure>\natures. Simply move plants into increasingly exposed sites over the course of a week or two while being prepared to bring them indoors when nighttime temperatures dip.<\/p>\n
Apply nitrogen to emerging <\/strong>garlic<\/strong><\/a> plants.<\/strong> Sidedress rows with 1 tablespoon of bloodmeal (or an equivalent source nitrogen) for every six plants.<\/p>\nSow an early-season <\/strong>cover crop<\/strong><\/a> to build soil organic matter.<\/strong> A mix of peas, oats, and vetch can be a winning combination to sow in early May, while late May can be a great time to sow buckwheat. Even if you don\u2019t grow these crops to maturity (early August), they will improve the soil ecosystem and help suppress weeds.<\/p>\nIn the flower garden:<\/strong><\/h4>\nMulch perennial beds. <\/strong>Use dark bark mulch on your perennial beds to conserve moisture and prevent weeds. Avoid covering the crowns of herbaceous plants and the trunks of woody plants.<\/p>\nStake peonies and other plants needing support.<\/strong> It\u2019s easier to stake them now before the plants get unmanageable. The Maine Home Garden News from June 2021 has an informative article about extending the peony season<\/a>. Definitely worth a read!<\/p>\nLearn how to attract butterflies and other pollinators to your yard.<\/strong> For more information, see Bulletin #7151, Landscaping for Butterflies in Maine<\/a>, and Bulletin #7153, Understanding Native Bees, the Great Pollinators: Enhancing Their Habitat in Maine<\/a>. Or consider taking part in Extension\u2019s Pollinator-Friendly Garden Certification<\/a>.<\/u><\/p>\nIn the fruit garden:<\/strong><\/h4>\nFertilize raspberries and blueberries.<\/strong> Apply about 2 lbs. actual nitrogen (N); phosphate (P2O5); and potash (K2O) per 1000 square feet (or 500 feet of row), i.e., 20 lbs. of 10-10-10. For organic substitutes use compost or rock powders. For more information, check out Bulletin #2066, Growing Raspberries and Blackberries<\/a> or Bulletin #2253, Growing Highbush Blueberries<\/a>.<\/p>\nAround and about:<\/strong><\/h4>\nRecordkeeping\u2014keep it up!<\/strong> Okay, you created your garden plan, noted which seeds you started when, and now comes the hard part: continuing to write down your observations of plant growth and yield, and insect and disease problems. A good recordkeeping task for May is to assess your spring bulbs as they flower. Mark the bulbs that need to be divided this fall with a stake in the garden or a note on your garden map.<\/p>\nForage for fiddleheads and dandelions.<\/strong> Depending on where in Maine you live, early May can be a good time to forage for fiddleheads and dandelions. Dandelions are ubiquitous, but be sure to harvest from areas where pesticides haven\u2019t been applied. Ostrich Fern Fiddleheads, Bulletin #2540<\/a> will help you identify the tender, coiled shoots of the Matteucia struthiopteris<\/em> fern and harvest them properly and sustainably. The Maine Department of Education has compiled a collection of recipes featuring dandelion greens, f<\/p>\nJapanese barberry growing in park in southern Maine. Photo by Kate Garland<\/figcaption><\/figure>\niddleheads, and sorrel, Wild Spring Greens: Wabanaki Foods in Maine Schools<\/a> (pdf). Additionally, Facts on Fiddleheads, Bulletin #4198<\/a> offers tips on cooking, preserving, and using fiddleheads.<\/a><\/p>\nNotice invasive plants. <\/strong>Many invasive plant species produce leaves earlier than their native counterparts, making them easier to spot and mark for future removal.<\/p>\nIf you suspect you have uninvited plant guests, consider trying a plant ID app noted in the article below and then confirm the identification and develop a management plan using the fact sheets linked on the Maine Department of Agriculture, Conservation and Forestry\u2019s invasive plant lists<\/a>.<\/p>\nEnjoy an evening frog chorus.<\/strong> By early May, wood frogs<\/a> and spring peepers<\/a> will be singing from vernal pools and small ponds, creating a cacophony of high-pitched peeps (peepers) and low-pitched \u201cwrunks\u201d (wood frogs). According to Maine Amphibians and Reptiles<\/em> (University of Maine Press, 1999), \u201cIn peak season, a chorus of peepers can be heard half a mile away.\u201d The call of wood frogs does not carry very far, and their peak breeding season is a few weeks earlier than the peepers\u2019.<\/p>\n
\n<\/a>How to Build a Zig Zag Garden (4-Post Trellised Garden)<\/h3>\nBy Richard Brzozowski, retired Extension Professor<\/em><\/p>\nA zig zag garden could be useful for people who have trouble kneeling or squatting. The zig zag garden is built for specific crops that climb: such as cucumber, indeterminate tomatoes, pole beans, sugar snap peas, butternut squash, climbing varieties of peppers, luffa gourds, as well as flowers such as sweet peas and morning glory. You will want to locate your zig zag garden in a sunny location that is well drained with soil deep enough to set the four posts at least 18\u201d deep.<\/p>\n
Materials needed for a 4-post zig zag garden:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- Four 8\u2019 posts (4\u201dx4\u201d)<\/li>\n
- Three 5\/4\u201dx10\u2019 cedar decking (cedar is a natural self-preserving wood). 2\u201dx10\u2019 rough-sawn hemlock (pictured here) is a good substitute for cedar.<\/li>\n
- One 16\u2019 cattle panel (48\u201d or 50\u201d tall)<\/li>\n
- Twenty-four fasteners (non-corrosive 3\u201d to 3 \u00bd\u201d in length) \u2013 screws work better than nails for this type of construction. Large exterior screws (like GRK) or lag bolts with 3\/8\u201d diameter and 3\u201d to 3 \u00bd\u201d in length will be strong and long lasting.<\/li>\n
- Twelve eye screws (1\u201d x 3 \u00bd\u201d should suffice)<\/li>\n
- Zip ties (to fasten panel to the eye screws) 10\u201d to 12\u201d<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Tools needed:<\/strong><\/p>\nPhoto by Art Shaw<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n- Measuring tape<\/li>\n
- Marker (pencil)<\/li>\n
- Post hole digger (or spade)<\/li>\n
- Saw (hand saw or portable circular saw)<\/li>\n
- Carpenter\u2019s square<\/li>\n
- Drill (with bits for drilling holes and for screwing)<\/li>\n
- Large screwdriver (to be used for setting the eye screws)<\/li>\n
- Flat-sided file (to smooth any sharp edges of the cattle panel pieces)<\/li>\n
- Level (2\u2019 or 4\u2019 in length) to plumb each garden panel when set into holes<\/li>\n
- Hacksaw or bolt cutter (to cut the 16\u2019 cattle panel into three equal pieces)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Steps to building a zig zag garden:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n- Cut the three 10\u2019 boards into six 5\u2019 lengths.<\/li>\n
- Lay out two 4×4\u201d posts on a flat surface (floor, driveway, or ground).<\/li>\n
- Fasten one board squarely (use the carpenter\u2019s square) to the side at the top of the posts using at least two fasteners on each post. It is suggested to first drill pilot holes in the boards to avoid cracking the wood with the fasteners.<\/li>\n
- Measure and mark 5\u2019 down on the posts and squarely fasten the next 5\u2019 board onto the posts (this board will be closest to the ground when set in place).<\/li>\n
- Repeat this construction with the remaining two posts.<\/li>\n
- On the inside of each unit and the center of the post, drill 4 pilot holes for the eye screws. It is recommended that the screw eye holes be drilled about 10\u201d and 54\u201d from the top of each post (12 pilot holes total). A large screwdriver is useful in screwing in the eye screw by placing the screwdriver through the eye of each eye screw and turning the eye screw clockwise.\u00a0 The screwdriver provides leverage.<\/li>\n
- With the bolt cutter or hacksaw, cut the 16\u2019 cattle panel into three equal sections. These will be about 5\u201d 4\u201d in length.\u00a0 Make sure the piece left after cutting has no sharp edges. Use a file to smooth off any sharpness after cutting.<\/li>\n
- Attach one cattle panel piece to the eye screw eye using the zip ties.<\/li>\n
- With the post hole digger or spade, dig two holes 5 feet apart and from 18\u201d to 24\u201ddeep.\n
Photo by Art Shaw<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n- Lift the panel and set it into the two holes. Level and plumb the panel (all sides) using the level (horizontally and vertically).<\/li>\n
- With a 5\u2019 board, lay the board out to select the correct spot to dig the remaining two holes. This is an important step. Be accurate as possible as you want this layout to be square (90 degrees).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
\n- With the post hole digger or spade, dig two holes 5 feet apart and from 18\u201d to 24\u201ddeep. Once the two holes are dug at the same depth as the first two holes, place the second panel into the holes. At this point and using the exterior fasteners, connect the two panels with the two remaining boards \u2013 squarely and as close to plumb as possible.<\/li>\n
- Check squareness, plumbness, and levelness of the zig zag garden panels. When level and plumb, fill in the remaining two holes and pack all holes to stabilize the unit. The two panels should be connected at 90 degrees (square).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Estimated cost of materials <\/strong>(March 2024):<\/p>\n\n- Four 4\u201dx4\u201dx8\u2019 posts \u2013 $10 to $50 each. (cedar posts – $50 each): $40.00 to $200<\/strong><\/li>\n
- Three 5\/4\u201dx10\u2019 long cedar boards – $14.00 each: $42.00<\/strong><\/li>\n
- One 16\u2019x 50\u201d cattle panel – $40.00: $40.00<\/strong><\/li>\n
- Twenty-four 5\/16\u201dor 3\/8\u201d\u00a0 3 \u00bd long fasteners – $0.75 to1.50 each: $18.00 to $36.00<\/strong><\/li>\n
- Twelve 1\u201d by 3\u201d eye screws – $1.00 each: $12.00<\/strong><\/li>\n
- Zip Ties (one bag): $4.00<\/strong><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Total: $150.00 to $334.00<\/strong><\/p>\n
\n<\/a>Plant Identification Apps<\/h3>\nBy Jonathan Foster, Horticulture Outreach Professional,\u00a0 UMaIne Cooperative Extension<\/em><\/p>\nSpotting a botanical oddity while walking in the woods, being blown away by some beauty in a blooming garden, or spotting a plant specimen miraculously thriving in the exact conditions of <\/span>that eternal problem spot<\/span><\/i> in your own yard where nothing grows \u2013 we\u2019ve all been in this situation before. What is that plant?! Mobile apps have revolutionized horticultural recognition in the course of everyday life, and the good news is that the technology for plant identification mobile applications has come a long way in a relatively short period of time. Mostly gone are the 2018 days of checking an interesting little sundew at the Orono Bog Walk and being told it\u2019s an endangered tropical epiphyte from the other side of the globe (ok, that\u2019s extreme, but anyone who experimented with the early plant apps can feel my hyperbolic pain).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nFor a more objective treatment than my anecdotal experience (which I\u2019ll provide below), I would like to point readers to a <\/span>series of fantastic use surveys<\/span><\/a> by Dr. Erin Hill, of the Michigan State University Cooperative Extension. Since 2018, she has asked university students to evaluate a total of 16 identification apps, with the best performers rolling over to the next year\u2019s group. You can see a sample set of the pictures they used in the tests, as well as differential results from the various apps, in the link above. Their evaluation listed complete accuracy rates (first place 73%, last place just over 30%), partial accuracy rates, and incorrect rates, and the complete and partial accuracy scores were also combined into a subjective \u201chelpfulness\u201d score. For three consecutive years now, <\/span>PictureThis<\/span><\/a> has outperformed the competitors on overall accuracy, helpfulness, and accuracy in plant sub-groups. The runner-up for their most recent survey was <\/span>PlantStory<\/span><\/a>, followed by <\/span>PlantNet<\/span><\/a>, <\/span>PlantIn<\/span><\/a>, <\/span>iNaturalist<\/span><\/a> (of note because it uses a crowd-sourcing approach to identification), and <\/span>Google Lens<\/span><\/a>.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nIn my own anecdotal experience, I am a pretty big fan of PictureThis. I find it to be accurate far more often than not, and it\u2019s easy and intuitive to use. My biggest criticisms are the frequent, somewhat intrusive attempts to upsell you to the full-featured version (which I hesitate to paint as too much of a negative, as I believe fully in the developers\u2019 right to charge for their hard work and a good product) and its winner-takes-all approach to identification. You are presented with the software\u2019s best match and if it doesn\u2019t seem correct, there isn\u2019t much else to it for the end user.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nI have recently begun testing PlantNet, which is also intuitive and easy to use, and which instead presents a list of high scoring potential matches for the plant being identified. It also lets you choose to focus the identification process on different plant organs, which can help when you are searching out of season. The downside is a slight drop in accuracy, or a situation in which a slate of relatively equally scoring species are given and the user must decide which among them is accurate. Among other resources and training to bolster results, I use both of these apps in my professional life\u2026and I certainly use them while strolling with the family for anything I\u2019m unfamiliar with.<\/span><\/p>\nWhen you select your app, remember to think not only of accuracy (let\u2019s be honest, the most important factor!), but also ease of use, how convenient\/informative the user interface is, cost, and the extent to which you\u2019re being upsold inside the free versions of software. As always, identifications are most accurate if cross-checked with definitive sources such as the <\/span>UMaine Cooperative Extension plant identification services<\/span><\/a> or a website like the <\/span>USDA Plant Database<\/span><\/a> or <\/span>GoBotany.com<\/span><\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\nInformation in this publication is provided purely for educational purposes. No responsibility is assumed for any problems associated with the use of products or services mentioned. No endorsement of products or companies is intended, nor is criticism of unnamed products or companies implied.<\/em><\/p>\n
\n<\/a>Beet Growing 101<\/h3>\nBy Tricia Griffith, Master Gardener Volunteer Intern <\/span><\/i><\/em><\/p>\nBeets! You love \u2018em or you don\u2019t love \u2018em! Maybe you find yourself firmly in the \u201clove \u2018em\u201d camp, but haven\u2019t been sure about growing them. Let\u2019s dig into some beet growing basics.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nThe beet (<\/span>Beta vulgaris<\/span><\/i>) is a member of the family Amaranthaceae (loosely pronounced am-a-ranth-a-see). This makes them cousins of plants like amaranth, spinach, chard, and quinoa. Native to Europe and the Mediterranean, beets are now grown almost everywhere and come in a wide variety of shapes and colors.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nWashing and bundling beets for Maine Harvest for Hunger donation at Rogers Farm in Old Town. Photo by Kate Garland<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nAs always, a <\/span>soil test<\/span> will help you figure out what soil amendments you will need before you start seeding. Beets prefer a soil pH of 6.0 – 7.0, but will tolerate a slightly higher pH, and will not thrive at a pH lower than 6.0. Beets like loose, well-drained soil. If you have a lot of clay or your soil is prone to getting a crust on top, mix in plenty of organic matter before sowing your seeds (compost, shredded leaves, etc\u2026).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nOnce your spring soil temperature has reached about 40\u00b0F (about 2-3 weeks before the last frost date), you can direct sow beet seeds into your garden as follows:\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n\n- Clear rocks from the area you want to seed.\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n
- Create a furrow about \u00bc to \u00bd inch deep – or make small holes 1\u201d apart. \u25cf Each row should be about 12-18\u201d apart.\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n
- If the soil is dry, trickle some water into the bottom of the furrows to give your beet seeds a good moist start (I know you love that word!).\u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/li>\n
- Once you have your moist (not soggy) furrows, sow your seeds 1\u201d apart and lightly cover with soil.\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n
- Water gently until the soil is saturated but not soggy.\u00a0<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Beet Growing Tip 1: <\/b>If you\u2019re having one of THOSE springs with torrential rains, prop up a board over the top of your row of seeds to prevent rain from washing them away. Remove the board as soon as they start to sprout.<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\nA beet \u201cseed\u201d is actually a fruit with a cluster of seeds inside, so don\u2019t be surprised when several sprouts pop up (in 7-14 days) where you put one seed. Once the seedlings are about 2\u201d high, thin them so they are 3\u201d apart. If you like, try planting each row about 2 weeks apart, so you have a succession of new beets throughout the summer.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nKeep the plants evenly watered throughout the season; mulch alongside the rows to preserve moisture. Too much moisture fluctuation can cause the beet root to crack. Excess moisture may lead to root rot. This <\/span>Utah State Extension article<\/span> has a helpful list of beet growing problems and their causes\/solutions.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nHarvest beets 60-80 days after sowing. Most varieties of beets grow to about 1-\u00bd inches wide. Some can get up to 3\u201d with enough space and moisture, but if much bigger they\u2019re going to be tough and woody. To harvest, use a garden fork to loosen up the soil, then pull the beet out by the leaves. Harvest the last of your beets before heavy frost or freezing.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nBeet Growing Tip 2: <\/b>Eat your greens! Similar to spinach or chard, beet greens are rich in vitamin K, copper, manganese, iron, and calcium. Save the beet greens you thin or trim and toss them in a salad or use them like you would spinach or chard.\u00a0<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\nTo store your beets, cut off the greens and wash them. They will store at 32\u00b0F, 95% relative humidity for 2-4 months. Or prepare them your favorite way and freeze or can them.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nBeet Growing Tip 3<\/b>: Beets are a biennial plant. This means they will grow roots and leaves the first year, then flower (and produce seeds) the second year. If you want to try collecting and saving your own beet seeds, see if you can leave a few in the ground until the next season, depending on your winter climate. <\/span>Seed Savers Exchange<\/span> has a great detailed section on saving beet seeds.\u00a0<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\nSo now, if you\u2019re in the beet lover camp, you know it\u2019s not super hard to grow some of your own! If you\u2019re not sure about them, stop by your local farmer\u2019s market this summer and grab a few and try roasting them. We think you\u2019ll like them!<\/span><\/p>\n
\n<\/a>Backyard Bird of the Month: Red-Eyed Vireo<\/h3>\nBy\u00a0Maine Audubon Field Naturalist Andy Kapinos<\/span><\/i><\/em><\/p>\nHere I am! Where are you? Way up here! In the tree!<\/span><\/i> So goes the song of the Red-eyed Vireo, heard in nearly every forested area between Kittery and Fort Kent from May until early autumn. True neotropical migrants, Red-eyed Vireos spend the nonbreeding season in the Amazon Basin, especially in Colombia, Brazil, Venezuela, Ecuador, and Peru. Most depart South America during April, and over the course of a few weeks or a month, make their way up through Central America and the southeastern US, migrating on clear nights and refueling during the day by feasting on the abundance of newly-emerged insects. The first males can reach Maine by the first week of May, but the majority arrive in the second and third weeks, just in time for the emergence of leaves and insects in the canopy of our forests.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\nRed-Eyed Vireo Photo by Jeff Schmoyer<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nThese canopy-dwellers are heard far more often than they are seen, and possess a huge vocal repertoire, combining various \u201csyllables\u201d into \u201cphrases\u201d that don\u2019t repeat. In fact, there is often no similarity between the songs of males whose territories are right next to each other. While the males generally sing from treetops; Red-eyed Vireos forage and nest in the mid- and understory, and require forest habitat with layers of native shrubs and small trees. <\/span>Their nests are usually built at these lower levels, with layers of foliage above to hide the nest from predators. <\/span><\/p>\nThey raise their young on insects, especially caterpillars and other larvae, before eating increasing amounts of fruit later in the summer, which they subsist on throughout the nonbreeding season. The return of Red-eyed Vireos to their breeding territories in Maine is a yearly reminder that conserving healthy forest ecosystems is important not only here at home, but also in the neotropical forests where they spend the rest of their lives.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/a>Mainely Dish: Rhubarb Muffins<\/h3>\n
Direct seed in the garden. <\/strong>Sow seeds of cool-season vegetables such as beets, carrots, peas, and Swiss chard directly into the garden.<\/p>\n Continue starting seeds indoors. <\/strong>Early May is the time to start seeds indoors of plants that don\u2019t tolerate frost, such as tomatoes, peppers, basil, and cucumbers, and plan to transplant them after all danger of frost has passed (typically late May or early June in Maine). Late May is the time to start fall brassica seeds indoors for transplanting in late June.<\/p>\n Harden off seedlings<\/strong><\/a> before planting.<\/strong> Seedlings (both home raised and purchased) benefit from being gradually exposed to increased sun, wind, and cooler temper<\/p>\n atures. Simply move plants into increasingly exposed sites over the course of a week or two while being prepared to bring them indoors when nighttime temperatures dip.<\/p>\n Apply nitrogen to emerging <\/strong>garlic<\/strong><\/a> plants.<\/strong> Sidedress rows with 1 tablespoon of bloodmeal (or an equivalent source nitrogen) for every six plants.<\/p>\n Sow an early-season <\/strong>cover crop<\/strong><\/a> to build soil organic matter.<\/strong> A mix of peas, oats, and vetch can be a winning combination to sow in early May, while late May can be a great time to sow buckwheat. Even if you don\u2019t grow these crops to maturity (early August), they will improve the soil ecosystem and help suppress weeds.<\/p>\n Mulch perennial beds. <\/strong>Use dark bark mulch on your perennial beds to conserve moisture and prevent weeds. Avoid covering the crowns of herbaceous plants and the trunks of woody plants.<\/p>\n Stake peonies and other plants needing support.<\/strong> It\u2019s easier to stake them now before the plants get unmanageable. The Maine Home Garden News from June 2021 has an informative article about extending the peony season<\/a>. Definitely worth a read!<\/p>\n Learn how to attract butterflies and other pollinators to your yard.<\/strong> For more information, see Bulletin #7151, Landscaping for Butterflies in Maine<\/a>, and Bulletin #7153, Understanding Native Bees, the Great Pollinators: Enhancing Their Habitat in Maine<\/a>. Or consider taking part in Extension\u2019s Pollinator-Friendly Garden Certification<\/a>.<\/u><\/p>\n Fertilize raspberries and blueberries.<\/strong> Apply about 2 lbs. actual nitrogen (N); phosphate (P2O5); and potash (K2O) per 1000 square feet (or 500 feet of row), i.e., 20 lbs. of 10-10-10. For organic substitutes use compost or rock powders. For more information, check out Bulletin #2066, Growing Raspberries and Blackberries<\/a> or Bulletin #2253, Growing Highbush Blueberries<\/a>.<\/p>\n Recordkeeping\u2014keep it up!<\/strong> Okay, you created your garden plan, noted which seeds you started when, and now comes the hard part: continuing to write down your observations of plant growth and yield, and insect and disease problems. A good recordkeeping task for May is to assess your spring bulbs as they flower. Mark the bulbs that need to be divided this fall with a stake in the garden or a note on your garden map.<\/p>\n Forage for fiddleheads and dandelions.<\/strong> Depending on where in Maine you live, early May can be a good time to forage for fiddleheads and dandelions. Dandelions are ubiquitous, but be sure to harvest from areas where pesticides haven\u2019t been applied. Ostrich Fern Fiddleheads, Bulletin #2540<\/a> will help you identify the tender, coiled shoots of the Matteucia struthiopteris<\/em> fern and harvest them properly and sustainably. The Maine Department of Education has compiled a collection of recipes featuring dandelion greens, f<\/p>\n iddleheads, and sorrel, Wild Spring Greens: Wabanaki Foods in Maine Schools<\/a> (pdf). Additionally, Facts on Fiddleheads, Bulletin #4198<\/a> offers tips on cooking, preserving, and using fiddleheads.<\/a><\/p>\n Notice invasive plants. <\/strong>Many invasive plant species produce leaves earlier than their native counterparts, making them easier to spot and mark for future removal.<\/p>\n If you suspect you have uninvited plant guests, consider trying a plant ID app noted in the article below and then confirm the identification and develop a management plan using the fact sheets linked on the Maine Department of Agriculture, Conservation and Forestry\u2019s invasive plant lists<\/a>.<\/p>\n Enjoy an evening frog chorus.<\/strong> By early May, wood frogs<\/a> and spring peepers<\/a> will be singing from vernal pools and small ponds, creating a cacophony of high-pitched peeps (peepers) and low-pitched \u201cwrunks\u201d (wood frogs). According to Maine Amphibians and Reptiles<\/em> (University of Maine Press, 1999), \u201cIn peak season, a chorus of peepers can be heard half a mile away.\u201d The call of wood frogs does not carry very far, and their peak breeding season is a few weeks earlier than the peepers\u2019.<\/p>\n By Richard Brzozowski, retired Extension Professor<\/em><\/p>\n A zig zag garden could be useful for people who have trouble kneeling or squatting. The zig zag garden is built for specific crops that climb: such as cucumber, indeterminate tomatoes, pole beans, sugar snap peas, butternut squash, climbing varieties of peppers, luffa gourds, as well as flowers such as sweet peas and morning glory. You will want to locate your zig zag garden in a sunny location that is well drained with soil deep enough to set the four posts at least 18\u201d deep.<\/p>\n Materials needed for a 4-post zig zag garden:<\/strong><\/p>\n Tools needed:<\/strong><\/p>\n Steps to building a zig zag garden:<\/strong><\/p>\n Estimated cost of materials <\/strong>(March 2024):<\/p>\n Total: $150.00 to $334.00<\/strong><\/p>\n By Jonathan Foster, Horticulture Outreach Professional,\u00a0 UMaIne Cooperative Extension<\/em><\/p>\n Spotting a botanical oddity while walking in the woods, being blown away by some beauty in a blooming garden, or spotting a plant specimen miraculously thriving in the exact conditions of <\/span>that eternal problem spot<\/span><\/i> in your own yard where nothing grows \u2013 we\u2019ve all been in this situation before. What is that plant?! Mobile apps have revolutionized horticultural recognition in the course of everyday life, and the good news is that the technology for plant identification mobile applications has come a long way in a relatively short period of time. Mostly gone are the 2018 days of checking an interesting little sundew at the Orono Bog Walk and being told it\u2019s an endangered tropical epiphyte from the other side of the globe (ok, that\u2019s extreme, but anyone who experimented with the early plant apps can feel my hyperbolic pain).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n For a more objective treatment than my anecdotal experience (which I\u2019ll provide below), I would like to point readers to a <\/span>series of fantastic use surveys<\/span><\/a> by Dr. Erin Hill, of the Michigan State University Cooperative Extension. Since 2018, she has asked university students to evaluate a total of 16 identification apps, with the best performers rolling over to the next year\u2019s group. You can see a sample set of the pictures they used in the tests, as well as differential results from the various apps, in the link above. Their evaluation listed complete accuracy rates (first place 73%, last place just over 30%), partial accuracy rates, and incorrect rates, and the complete and partial accuracy scores were also combined into a subjective \u201chelpfulness\u201d score. For three consecutive years now, <\/span>PictureThis<\/span><\/a> has outperformed the competitors on overall accuracy, helpfulness, and accuracy in plant sub-groups. The runner-up for their most recent survey was <\/span>PlantStory<\/span><\/a>, followed by <\/span>PlantNet<\/span><\/a>, <\/span>PlantIn<\/span><\/a>, <\/span>iNaturalist<\/span><\/a> (of note because it uses a crowd-sourcing approach to identification), and <\/span>Google Lens<\/span><\/a>.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n In my own anecdotal experience, I am a pretty big fan of PictureThis. I find it to be accurate far more often than not, and it\u2019s easy and intuitive to use. My biggest criticisms are the frequent, somewhat intrusive attempts to upsell you to the full-featured version (which I hesitate to paint as too much of a negative, as I believe fully in the developers\u2019 right to charge for their hard work and a good product) and its winner-takes-all approach to identification. You are presented with the software\u2019s best match and if it doesn\u2019t seem correct, there isn\u2019t much else to it for the end user.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n I have recently begun testing PlantNet, which is also intuitive and easy to use, and which instead presents a list of high scoring potential matches for the plant being identified. It also lets you choose to focus the identification process on different plant organs, which can help when you are searching out of season. The downside is a slight drop in accuracy, or a situation in which a slate of relatively equally scoring species are given and the user must decide which among them is accurate. Among other resources and training to bolster results, I use both of these apps in my professional life\u2026and I certainly use them while strolling with the family for anything I\u2019m unfamiliar with.<\/span><\/p>\n When you select your app, remember to think not only of accuracy (let\u2019s be honest, the most important factor!), but also ease of use, how convenient\/informative the user interface is, cost, and the extent to which you\u2019re being upsold inside the free versions of software. As always, identifications are most accurate if cross-checked with definitive sources such as the <\/span>UMaine Cooperative Extension plant identification services<\/span><\/a> or a website like the <\/span>USDA Plant Database<\/span><\/a> or <\/span>GoBotany.com<\/span><\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n Information in this publication is provided purely for educational purposes. No responsibility is assumed for any problems associated with the use of products or services mentioned. No endorsement of products or companies is intended, nor is criticism of unnamed products or companies implied.<\/em><\/p>\n By Tricia Griffith, Master Gardener Volunteer Intern <\/span><\/i><\/em><\/p>\n Beets! You love \u2018em or you don\u2019t love \u2018em! Maybe you find yourself firmly in the \u201clove \u2018em\u201d camp, but haven\u2019t been sure about growing them. Let\u2019s dig into some beet growing basics.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n The beet (<\/span>Beta vulgaris<\/span><\/i>) is a member of the family Amaranthaceae (loosely pronounced am-a-ranth-a-see). This makes them cousins of plants like amaranth, spinach, chard, and quinoa. Native to Europe and the Mediterranean, beets are now grown almost everywhere and come in a wide variety of shapes and colors.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n As always, a <\/span>soil test<\/span> will help you figure out what soil amendments you will need before you start seeding. Beets prefer a soil pH of 6.0 – 7.0, but will tolerate a slightly higher pH, and will not thrive at a pH lower than 6.0. Beets like loose, well-drained soil. If you have a lot of clay or your soil is prone to getting a crust on top, mix in plenty of organic matter before sowing your seeds (compost, shredded leaves, etc\u2026).\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Once your spring soil temperature has reached about 40\u00b0F (about 2-3 weeks before the last frost date), you can direct sow beet seeds into your garden as follows:\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Beet Growing Tip 1: <\/b>If you\u2019re having one of THOSE springs with torrential rains, prop up a board over the top of your row of seeds to prevent rain from washing them away. Remove the board as soon as they start to sprout.<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n A beet \u201cseed\u201d is actually a fruit with a cluster of seeds inside, so don\u2019t be surprised when several sprouts pop up (in 7-14 days) where you put one seed. Once the seedlings are about 2\u201d high, thin them so they are 3\u201d apart. If you like, try planting each row about 2 weeks apart, so you have a succession of new beets throughout the summer.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Keep the plants evenly watered throughout the season; mulch alongside the rows to preserve moisture. Too much moisture fluctuation can cause the beet root to crack. Excess moisture may lead to root rot. This <\/span>Utah State Extension article<\/span> has a helpful list of beet growing problems and their causes\/solutions.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Harvest beets 60-80 days after sowing. Most varieties of beets grow to about 1-\u00bd inches wide. Some can get up to 3\u201d with enough space and moisture, but if much bigger they\u2019re going to be tough and woody. To harvest, use a garden fork to loosen up the soil, then pull the beet out by the leaves. Harvest the last of your beets before heavy frost or freezing.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Beet Growing Tip 2: <\/b>Eat your greens! Similar to spinach or chard, beet greens are rich in vitamin K, copper, manganese, iron, and calcium. Save the beet greens you thin or trim and toss them in a salad or use them like you would spinach or chard.\u00a0<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n To store your beets, cut off the greens and wash them. They will store at 32\u00b0F, 95% relative humidity for 2-4 months. Or prepare them your favorite way and freeze or can them.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n Beet Growing Tip 3<\/b>: Beets are a biennial plant. This means they will grow roots and leaves the first year, then flower (and produce seeds) the second year. If you want to try collecting and saving your own beet seeds, see if you can leave a few in the ground until the next season, depending on your winter climate. <\/span>Seed Savers Exchange<\/span> has a great detailed section on saving beet seeds.\u00a0<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n So now, if you\u2019re in the beet lover camp, you know it\u2019s not super hard to grow some of your own! If you\u2019re not sure about them, stop by your local farmer\u2019s market this summer and grab a few and try roasting them. We think you\u2019ll like them!<\/span><\/p>\n By\u00a0Maine Audubon Field Naturalist Andy Kapinos<\/span><\/i><\/em><\/p>\n Here I am! Where are you? Way up here! In the tree!<\/span><\/i> So goes the song of the Red-eyed Vireo, heard in nearly every forested area between Kittery and Fort Kent from May until early autumn. True neotropical migrants, Red-eyed Vireos spend the nonbreeding season in the Amazon Basin, especially in Colombia, Brazil, Venezuela, Ecuador, and Peru. Most depart South America during April, and over the course of a few weeks or a month, make their way up through Central America and the southeastern US, migrating on clear nights and refueling during the day by feasting on the abundance of newly-emerged insects. The first males can reach Maine by the first week of May, but the majority arrive in the second and third weeks, just in time for the emergence of leaves and insects in the canopy of our forests.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n These canopy-dwellers are heard far more often than they are seen, and possess a huge vocal repertoire, combining various \u201csyllables\u201d into \u201cphrases\u201d that don\u2019t repeat. In fact, there is often no similarity between the songs of males whose territories are right next to each other. While the males generally sing from treetops; Red-eyed Vireos forage and nest in the mid- and understory, and require forest habitat with layers of native shrubs and small trees. <\/span>Their nests are usually built at these lower levels, with layers of foliage above to hide the nest from predators. <\/span><\/p>\n They raise their young on insects, especially caterpillars and other larvae, before eating increasing amounts of fruit later in the summer, which they subsist on throughout the nonbreeding season. The return of Red-eyed Vireos to their breeding territories in Maine is a yearly reminder that conserving healthy forest ecosystems is important not only here at home, but also in the neotropical forests where they spend the rest of their lives.<\/span><\/p>\nIn the flower garden:<\/strong><\/h4>\n
In the fruit garden:<\/strong><\/h4>\n
Around and about:<\/strong><\/h4>\n
\n<\/a>How to Build a Zig Zag Garden (4-Post Trellised Garden)<\/h3>\n
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\n<\/a>Plant Identification Apps<\/h3>\n
\n<\/a>Beet Growing 101<\/h3>\n
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\n<\/a>Backyard Bird of the Month: Red-Eyed Vireo<\/h3>\n
<\/a>Mainely Dish: Rhubarb Muffins<\/h3>\n