Maine Home Garden Newsletter – May

In This Issue:

• Five Things Every Maine Gardener Should Be Doing in May
• Seasonal Sightings
• Big Yields on Small Plots: Trellises
• Eat the Pansies: How to Elevate Garden-to-Table Meals with Edible Flowers
• Seeing Seeds Differently (Part 2)
• Applying Soil Amendments
• Lyme Disease Awareness Month
• Featured Resource
• Ask the Expert
• Maine Weather and Climate Overview

---

Five Things Every Maine Gardener Should Be Doing in May

By Sandra Mitchell, Master Gardener Volunteer, Maine Master Naturalist and Maine Master Food Preserver

At least for me, a particular kind of optimism arrives in May along with the moderating temperatures. After months of restraint — of seed catalogs (ok, perhaps the 8 inch deep stack here doesn’t scream restraint!), careful planning, and watching snow recede seemingly inch by inch — the garden finally begins to open up. The light stretches longer into the evening, the soil softens (oh so very slowly), and every warm afternoon feels like an invitation.

But May, especially around Bangor, is a study in restraint as much as action. It invites you forward — and then reminds you, sometimes sharply, that it’s still Maine.

For experienced gardeners, this is the month where judgment matters more than enthusiasm. Here are five things worth focusing on now to set the tone for the entire growing season.

Work the Soil — But Only When It’s Ready

It’s tempting to get into the beds the moment the snow disappears. But Maine soils,  especially heavier loams and anything with clay, hold moisture longer than they appear to. That deceptively dry surface can hide a saturated layer just an inch below.

Working soil too early is one of the few mistakes that can quietly set you back for the entire season. Wet soil compacts easily under foot and tool, destroying the structure and pore space that roots depend on; and that damage lingers long after spring has moved on.

Instead, take a moment to first examine the soil moisture level. Grab a handful and squeeze. If it forms a tight, sticky ball that holds its shape, give it a few more days. If it breaks apart easily when you open your hand, you’re good to go.

Once the soil is ready, loosen beds gently without over-tilling and top-dress with a light layer of compost if your beds need it. Think of this less as planting prep and more as building the root environment that everything else depends on for the next five months. And don’t forget – it is never too late to have your soil tested!  If you neglected to do it in the fall, this is a great time to drop off a sample to make sure your additives match the needs of your garden!

Direct Sow the Cold-Tolerant Crops

May is when the first real planting begins — but once again, with steady restraint. Early in the month, peas, spinach, arugula, radishes, and beets can go directly into the ground with confidence. These crops don’t just tolerate cool soil, they genuinely prefer it; delaying them too long risks bolting as days warm and lengthen in June. Carrots belong in this cool-season group too, but they’re worth waiting on until mid-May around Bangor. They germinate slowly in cold soil and reward a little patience with a much more reliable stand. Remember that they like a bit sandier soil than the other early crops.

A rhythm that works well in our unpredictable climate is to plant in waves rather than all at once — a first sowing in early May, a second succession mid-month, and a final cool-crop round in late May before summer heat arrives. This staggered approach stretches your harvest window and hedges against the unpredictability of spring weather in a way that a single planting simply can’t. Of course, if you are like me and are overzealous, you soon wind up with so many radishes that your neighbors start to hide when they see you coming and duct tape their mailboxes shut to try and slow delivery!  I blame it on the tiny size of the seeds as opposed to my enthusiasm!

If you’ve ever lost a full row of seedlings to a sudden cold snap, or a week of cold, sideways rain, you already know why that hedge is worth building in. At least your next planting still has the chance to survive.

Manage Frost Risk As Much As Possible

If there’s one thing every Maine gardener eventually learns, it’s this: May is not frost-free. Even in the Bangor area, where the average last frost falls around May 15–18, a sharp cold night can arrive well into late May — and in low-lying areas or outlying spots, even later than that.

That doesn’t mean you can’t begin moving warm-season crops like tomatoes, peppers, squash, and cucumbers toward the garden. It means you need a plan before you do.

Harden off transplants gradually — 10 days is the minimum, not a suggestion — and watch overnight forecasts closely. Clear, calm nights are the ones to watch; cloud cover and wind actually moderate temperature in ways that a still, open sky does not. Keep row cover or frost cloth within arm’s reach rather than in the back of the shed, and learn the microclimates of your own property: the south-facing wall that stays a few degrees warmer, the raised bed that drains and warms faster than the rest of the garden.

That local knowledge, built over seasons, becomes one of your most reliable tools. More often than not, the gardener who waits one more week wins. Even venturing into the (somewhat expensive) world of water walls and other newer versions of plant protection may prove worthwhile against the sudden unexpected frost that has hit all of us at some point in time.  Like that year when I planted all of the tomatoes before going away for Memorial Day weekend…

Divide, Thin, and Reset Perennials

By mid-May, your perennial beds are beginning to declare themselves. You’ll see what came through winter cleanly and what didn’t, which clumps have quietly outgrown their space, and which aggressive spreaders have been working on a takeover plan all winter.

This is the ideal window to divide overcrowded hostas, daylilies, and bee balm — doing it now, while temperatures are still cool and soil moisture is relatively high, gives divisions time to re-establish before summer stress arrives. One timing note worth remembering: early-blooming perennials like bleeding heart and primrose are better divided after they flower rather than now. Let them finish their show first.

While you’re in the beds, remove winter-damaged growth, thin anything that’s encroaching where it shouldn’t, and take the time to re-edge and redefine borders that have softened over winter. It’s also one of the most cost-free ways to expand your garden — or make a neighbor very happy — without buying a single new plant. Don’t forget your “besties” in the Maine Master Gardener world who would always be thrilled to adopt your extras, but be sure to remove all weeds and rinse as much soil from the roots as possible so you’re not also sharing weeds and invasives such as jumping worms.

There’s something deeply satisfying about taking a clump that’s been quietly thriving for years, splitting it apart, and giving it new room to grow, or a new home to explore. The plants seem to appreciate it as much as you do.

Stay Ahead of Weeds — This Is the Moment

If there’s a single window in the Maine gardening calendar where a modest amount of effort pays the highest possible return, this is it.

Weeds in May are just germinating. They’re small, they’re shallow-rooted, and they come out with almost no effort. The same plants you can remove with a light sweep of a hand hoe today will require a serious reckoning in June.

Light, frequent passes through the beds — even 10 or 15 minutes every few days — makes an enormous difference. Once the soil has warmed slightly, mulching beds is one of the most effective ways to suppress new germination before it starts.  I tell myself this every single year.  And I curse that I didn’t take my own advice in June; and July; and August.

One nuance worth knowing: you’ll sometimes hear advice to disturb the top layer of soil to interrupt weed seed germination, and it’s true that a light surface scratch can disrupt seedlings just emerging. But it also can bring dormant weed seeds up from below into the light they need to sprout. Many experienced gardeners find that minimal soil disturbance paired with a good layer of mulch is the more effective long-term strategy — less digging, fewer weeds. Try both approaches in different beds and see what your specific soil tells you.

May also teaches you to read your garden in ways that pay off for years: where weeds emerge first, which areas stay damp longest, which beds warm fastest. That awareness becomes one of your most valuable tools over time — and it’s knowledge no seed catalog can sell you.

A Final Thought: May Is About Calibration

For all its activity, May isn’t really about speed, even though we feel like we are finally rocketing towards summer. It’s about calibration.

You’re adjusting to soil conditions, light levels, temperature swings, and the subtle timing of your specific piece of ground. No two gardens — even a mile apart — move at exactly the same pace.

The best gardeners here aren’t the ones who rush ahead. They’re the ones who watch closely, respond carefully, and make small, well-timed decisions. They’re the ones who know that what they do in May doesn’t just determine what gets planted. It shapes how everything grows.

---

Seasonal Sightings

Article and photo by Maine Audubon Horticulture Assistant Jocelyn LaClair

Different species of willow can be tricky to tell apart because the species tend to hybridize, and there is high variability in the shape and size of various features. Even Henry David Thoreau once said, “The more I study willows, the more I am confused!” However, for a couple of weeks in early spring it becomes extremely easy to identify Pussy Willows: look for the iconic white to gray fuzzy catkins in late March and early April. Male catkins are much larger than female catkins, and as the season progresses, they extend stamens with yellow anthers. The tiny seeds that form have a tuft of fluff for wind dispersal. They don’t last very long, oftentimes landing and germinating within a day. Ruby-throated hummingbirds will often gather fluff from the catkins to line their nests.

This tree is named after the cat paw look of the fluffy catkins. One legend provides a delightful story for how the tree got its fluffy catkins. One day, a cat and her litter of kittens were playing alongside a river when the kittens accidentally fell in. The mother cat meowed for help, and the riverside Pussy Willow trees drooped down and caught the kittens in their branches, lifting them to safety. The fluffy catkins that emerge each spring represent the kittens that the trees saved that day!

Other May signs of wildlife to look for:

• Listen for American Toads calling in the evening. Their call is a high musical trill held at the same pitch.
• Look down for Giant Leopard Moth larvae on the move! They’re emerging from the leaves you didn’t rake last winter, and will be flying around as adults next month.
• Bobolinks are now returning to Maine from their wintering grounds in South America, completing one of the longest migrations of any passerine in the Americas. These birds need expansive grassy fields to breed, and can benefit greatly from small changes to mowing schedules.

---

Big Yields on Small Plots: Trellises

By Carrick Gambell, Urban Agriculture Professional, UMaine Cooperative Extension and Natural Resources Conservation

One of the most important strategies for maximizing space on a small plot is to grow vertically. While this may sound daunting, vertical growing systems do not need to be complicated. Growers can take advantage of the natural vining and sprawling tendencies of many plants by building low technology, low budget trellises.

Trellises offer a number of advantages to growers. Primarily, they allow for a more efficient use of space. When plants are encouraged to grow upward, they can be planted more densely, and the adjacent space where they might have sprawled is left available for additional plantings.

Another important advantage of trellises is the reduction of pest and disease risk. Plants like tomatoes despise prolonged periods of wetness. When they are left to sprawl on the ground, they are more vulnerable to foliar (relating to leaves) diseases. Trellised plants enjoy improved airflow, which facilitates faster drying of leaves after rain, and reduced predation from ground-dwelling pests like slugs.

A third benefit of trellising is the impact on harvest. Every gardener has likely experienced a sense of dismay when they check their plot at the height of summer and realize they missed a once-beautiful tomato that has fallen and cracked, or a hidden cucumber that has swollen to the size of a blimp. When these plants are vining along a trellis, the fruit is much more visible, presenting itself closer to eye level. Growers with joint pain or reduced mobility also don’t need to spend as much time bending over or squatting to harvest.

Finally, trellises can add a touch of beauty and intrigue to the garden. I’m always captivated by homemade archways packed with flowering runner beans, or melons drooping from a sturdy netting. Trellises can make us smile when we visit the garden, which is undeniably valuable.

Growers interested in trellising should begin by evaluating their current site layout. Is an existing fenceline available? Chain link fences provide sturdy trellises for peas, beans, and cucumbers. I’ve even seen a cherry tomato woven between a chain link fence. For trellising lighter plants like peas and beans, growers can build a tower from scavenged or re-purposed materials like tree branches and wooden stakes. Growers interested in advancing their trellis systems could consider infrastructure like metal t-posts, twine, or netting. Sturdy posts and twine can be used to support tomatoes with the “basket weave” method. Posts and netting are the foundation for supporting cucumbers and squash such as tromboncino. For growers interested in adding an aesthetic trellis centerpiece to their garden, cattle panel is a lovely option. This heavy duty steel material can be bent and turned into a lovely archway between garden plots. There are many options for creatively incorporating trellises into the garden. Growers will need to experiment to find the approach that works best for them, but need not be daunted by a lack of experience.

---

Eat the Pansies: How to Elevate Garden-to-Table Meals with Edible Flowers

From the National Garden Bureau

It’s Tuesday night. Dinnertime. You’re stumped. You’re tired of bland salads, uninspired pasta, and lackluster frittatas. What’s a hungry cook to do?

Quick—take a stroll through your flower garden. That’s right. Sometimes, all you need for a burst of culinary creativity is a glimmer of floral inspiration. Whether you’ve harvested homegrown lettuce or simply snipped open a salad bag from the grocery store, a few edible flowers plucked from the garden brighten a boring, blah, everyday meal, turning it into something Instagram-worthy.

While you may think of edible flowers as simply a garnish to adorn an entrée, you’ll find these pretty blooms make delicious desserts, savory snacks, and even appealing appetizers. From freezing flowers in ice cube trays to level up a cocktail to sprinkling petals among pasta or stuffing blossoms with cheese, edible flowers may be the inspiration you need to turn daily dinners into tasty, creative escapes. But where to begin?

Quick Garden Tip: If you plan on using flowers in your favorite culinary adventures, grow them organically and avoid spraying pesticides. Always wash harvested flowers and gently pat them dry before consuming.

Annuals:

Calendula

Who doesn’t love a burst of sunshiny flowers in the garden, especially when they both feed pollinators and support the gardener’s immune system? Used traditionally as a medicinal herb, the edible ray florets of calendula (which look like yellow or orange petals) burst with antioxidant compounds. Known as the “poor man’s saffron,” calendula provides warm flavor and bright color at a fraction of the price of saffron. Use it speckled in quiche, sprinkled in a frittata, or added to salads. For beautiful, easy-to-grow blooms, try Kablouna Mix calendula. Compact, mounding growth sports delightful anemone-type flowers in a soft cream hue with vibrant orange tips that look lovely both in the garden and on the plate.

Nasturtium

If you want maximum value in an edible flower, you’ll love growing nasturtium. Not only are the flowers gorgeous, but every part of the plant is edible: flowers, leaves, stems, and even the young seed pods, which are often pickled to make “poor man’s capers.” (Poor man’s saffron, poor man’s capers…there’s a theme here about the value of edible flowers!) While the flowers sport aromatic and floral flavors with a bit of spiciness, the leaves and stems bring the heat to dishes, similar to radishes. For vibrant colors and peppery flavor, try Arizona Mix nasturtium. Mixed colors include orange, red, and yellow flowers. Easy to grow, this highly ornamental plant produces abundant blooms and leaves, perfect for your favorite recipes.

Pansy

If you’re looking to add an aesthetically pleasing splash to your cakes, cookies, or cocktails, consider adding pansies to your list of favorite edible flowers. Not only are these cuties adorable in your favorite cuisine, but pansies provide pretty blooms during cooler days, when many other flowers are just emerging in spring—or winding down for the season in fall. With charming faces and a mild flavor, pansies make a perfectly pretty addition to salads, desserts, and garnishing charcuterie boards. Freeze the flowers in ice cube trays to jazz up a basic glass of lemonade or press the blooms into soft cheese for a uniquely lovely appetizer. And sugared pansies make desserts look—and taste—extra-fancy.

For a variety that looks lovely in hanging baskets and containers, try Top Wave™ Marina Pansy. With the largest flowers of any spreading pansy series, these low-maintenance, vigorous, and long-lasting bi-colored blue and white blooms look gorgeous in the garden and in your recipes.

Squash Blossoms

If you find yourself overwhelmed with zucchini each summer, sneaking excess onto the neighbor’s porch, it may be time to cull the harvest a tad—and savor squash blossoms in your summer dinners. A classic Italian delicacy, fiori di zucca fritti involves filling fresh squash blossoms with cheese—then frying them into a delicious, decadent treat. But because of their neutral flavor, squash blossoms are a highly versatile edible flower. Slice the flowers and mix them in frittatas or omelets, top risotto, add to quesadillas, or use raw in salads.

Just make sure to know the difference between male and female flowers so you don’t accidentally deplete your entire squash harvest. (Hint: female flowers produce squash, and you’ll find a fleshy ovary behind the flower where it attaches to the vine. Make sure to leave a few male flowers as well, so the pollinators can do their job and make baby squash.)

For a high-yielding, spineless zucchini variety, add Noche to your garden. The plant produces dark green, easy-to-harvest zucchini due to its open habit. Plus, Noche resists Watermelon Mosaic Virus and Zucchini Yellow Mosaic Virus, helping keep the plant healthy and productive over the long term.

Quick Garden Tip: Harvest healthy, vibrant blooms early in the morning, once the dew dries but before the sun scorches. Edible flowers taste best when used the same day as harvested.

Perennials

Bee Balm

Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds aren’t alone in their love of bee balm. A beauty in the landscape, these edible flowers add a perfect pop of color and flavor in the kitchen, too. Because bee balm (Monarda) is a member of the mint family, you’ll note a minty flavor when you enjoy these edible flowers in your favorite treats. Add bee balm to salads, brew into tea, mix into compound butter, garnish savory dishes, and decorate desserts.

For a cultivar that tastes great and looks lovely, try Red Velvet Bee Balm. Because it’s taller than many varieties, it’s an excellent plant for filling the middle of borders. Red Velvet produces large, cherry-red flowers. USDA Zones 4-8. Or try Jacob Cline Bee Balm, which earned its historical nickname, Oswego tea, from the Oswego Nation, who used the herb for fragrant teas long before early botanists documented it. The flavor is a refreshing combination of citrus and mint, making it a perfect edible addition to the garden. This variety is a top-tier red bee balm, boasting large, crimson flower crowns and an early bloom time starting in June. USDA Zones 4-9.

Dianthus

With a hint of peppery flavor, dianthus not only adds prettiness to your recipes, but they also punch up garden-to-table goodies with nutmeg and clove notes. Add these beautiful blooms to wine. Create a syrup with them for cocktails. Or pour the syrup over plain vanilla ice cream to create an inspired dessert.

For a gorgeous variety that looks lovely in bouquets as well as on the plate, try Bananaberry Fizz dianthus. A blend of magenta and yellow double flowers, the plants reach a height of 24 inches. One of the few scented varieties, it’s ideal for creating a nectar-rich haven of fragrant flowers for bees and butterflies. USDA Zones 6-9.

Lavender

From sweet treats to savory dishes, lavender creates a unique and aromatic twist to your favorite recipes. The delicate floral notes pair beautifully with a variety of ingredients, adding sophisticated elegance to your meals and treats. Line a path with this gorgeous, highly aromatic herb and enjoy its sweet scent as you brush by it. Find more recipes for Cooking with Lavender, like a lavender simple syrup.

From sweet treats to savory dishes, lavender creates a unique and aromatic twist to your favorite recipes. The delicate floral notes pair beautifully with a variety of ingredients, adding sophisticated elegance to your meals and treats. Line a path with this gorgeous, highly aromatic herb and enjoy its sweet scent as you brush by it. Find more recipes for cooking with lavender, like a lavender simple syrup.

The pollinators will adore lavender, too. With a compact, dense habit and notable durability for sun, heat, and humidity, as well as cold tolerance, Sensational!™ Lavender outshines many traditional lavender varieties. Silvery foliage is topped by large, dense purple flower spikes, perfect for harvesting the buds to use in your favorite culinary adventures. USDA Zones 5-9.

Daylilies

If you’re feeling adventurous, why not add a new ingredient to your culinary lineup? Not only are daylilies gorgeous, low-maintenance landscape plants, but the entire plant—from tubers to shoots to buds and blooms—is edible. Now, you’re probably thinking, “Why would I eat daylily tubers when I love the look of the flowers in the garden?” And you’re right. But if you only harvest a portion of the tuber and replant the remaining segment, you’ll enjoy an interesting ingredient in your recipes, while the flowers will keep growing for years.

All portions of daylilies make excellent additions to your meal plans. Harvest young shoots for stir-fries and pasta. Pluck buds to steam, boil, or stir-fry. The flower buds taste like a cross between asparagus and green peas, perfect for sauteing with garlic and butter. Buds also taste great pickled. Boil the tubers like potatoes. Add fresh petals to salads. The versatility of daylilies creates interesting, beautiful dishes. For a gorgeous addition to your garden and recipes, look for the Skye™ Series. With colors ranging from yellow to pink to orange, these reblooming daylilies add drama to the landscape, while tasting delicious in your culinary creations. USDA Zones 4-11.

Quick Garden Tip: Only harvest Hemerocallis (daylily) for use in meals. Other lilies, such as Asiatic, star, calla, peace lilies, and crinum, can be poisonous or cause irritation. Make sure to read plant tags carefully, and if you’re unsure which lily is growing in the garden—err on the side of caution and forgo harvesting for meals.

If you’re enamored with edible flowers, branch out! Stroll through your herb garden and harvest blooms from chamomile, chives, dill, oregano, sage, thyme, rosemary, and more—these blooms also make delicious additions to your favorite recipes.

And, to get you inspired, visit the National Garden Bureau website to find a few recipes to try.

---

Seeing Seeds Differently (Part 2)

Introduction by Lynne Holland, Horticulture Professional; plant descriptions by Citlalli Constantino, Master Gardener Volunteer

A Master Gardener Volunteer, a Master Food Preserver, and a Chef walk into a plant sale…. No, this is not the start of a joke; they are all one person! Lali once again is sharing her perspective and experience about some plants that she finds to grow in her Maine garden.

Habanero Hot Pepper (Capsicum chinense)

Despite the classification “Capsicum chinense” given by Dutch scientists due to its wide use in Asian foods, the Habanero has its origins in South America. Although the indigenous cultures brought this spicy pearl to the Caribbean, its name was given by the Spanish, who traded it through the route between the Yucatan Peninsula and Cuba.
Grow this type of hot pepper pretty much the same as you would any hot pepper. Start them indoors at least 10 weeks before the last frost. It is very important to provide a soil temperature of 75-80℉ with a heat mat or on top of a fridge or a radiator (some source of constant warmth). Move them, once sprouted, but keep giving them a good source of light. Transplant in the garden after the danger of frost. Germination occurs between 10 and 14 days, and the fruits can be enjoyed in 90 days. Habaneros are usually very prolific and compact plants; they perform well in full sun with some afternoon shade given by other plants.

My family lives in the Yucatan Peninsula, where this hot pepper is the star in the daily meals. There’s an array of ways to eat this pepper: just a straight bite, in colored salsas, and you can even find a “black habanero hot sauce” which is made with deeply grilled peppers. Another way to eat this hot pepper is fresh and smashed in a mortar that we call “molcajete” and drizzled with a sour orange and some salt. It is also used mixed with shredded cabbage, salt, and sour orange juice. A fun fact that I see now that I don’t live in Mexico is that when you buy some local food “to go,” the street food business packs your meal and adds a couple of habaneros in the bag. There’s also a local belief that green habaneros are less spicy and red habaneros are the most spicy. I have found all habanero colors very spicy but paired with the right food they can enhance flavors and you can enjoy their floral and citrusy hints. Some extra information is that consuming habaneros doesn’t bother the stomach as does jalapenos; it’s a matter of their chemical components.
Going to the local markets in Merida, Yucatan is a very colorful experience. Seasonal fruits beside bowls with all the habanero colors is a very tropical/peninsular experience that makes anyone happy.

Sources: Vera Mexicana: All About the Habanero Chili 

Tomato ‘Pruden’s Purple’ (Solanum lycopersicum)

How often are the tomato’s origins mistaken as European? The fact is that the tomato was cultivated long before the colonization times in Mesoamerica. The tomato travelled from Mexico to gardens in Spain (some studies say that they arrived first in Sevilla) as an ornamental plant; landed onto the tables of the noble society; and then to dishes, that now are the staple of some notable countries, from margarita pizza and bruschettas in Italy to ratatouille in France. How could those dishes have been invented if it wasn’t for the juicy flavor and beautiful color of tomatoes?

Today we know (thanks to the research of botanists) that tomatoes are from the Solanaceae family and, for that reason, are a warm-season crop. Here in the Northeast, they recommend starting the seeds indoors at least 6 weeks in advance of planting outdoors, providing a temperature of 75-80℉ with the help of a heating mat or close to a radiator, and also close to a good light, such as a windowsill or special lights.  The little plants must be hardened off before setting them in their final space in the garden when any danger of frost has passed. Our featured variety, ‘Pruden’s Purple,’ is an indeterminate or vining type. To dig for a little more information about the difference between determinate and indeterminate tomatoes, I suggest reading this very important article about all things related to tomato growing in New England: Tomato, Outdoor: New England Vegetable Management Guide: UMass Amherst.

‘Pruden’s Purple’ is a slicing tomato, offering the opportunity to use it in sandwiches, summer grilled burgers, or as I was told some years ago (and has become my tradition as well): take a baguette and slice it, toast it, add a slice of cheese and top with a nice thick slice of tomato, a little drip of olive oil, some salt and fresh ground pepper…all the summer flavor!! I use it as well in a fast, fresh salsa, chopped with some basil, a drop of balsamic vinegar, salt, and fresh ground pepper, as a base for bruschetta – a great option for those warm nights.

Tomatoes have a huge importance in Mexican culture. I could say that we use tomatoes almost every day: I can see my mom’s fridge always with a jar of tomato sauce that we use on top of fried eggs at breakfast time, then at lunch we use that sauce as a companion, or during supper on top of a good quesadilla. A lot of Mexican dishes use tomatoes, like tamales, tacos, soups. In every street food place you can find different kinds of salsas where tomatoes are present, and red or green tomatillos. That’s why I try to grow as many plants as I can tuck in my beds, and “Pruden’s Purple” definitely has a spot. This early-producing dusky red tomato is an heirloom variety.

Sources:

México en la mesa, Guillermo Bermúdez, Martha Elena García

Tomato, Outdoor : New England Vegetable Management Guide : UMass Amherst

Lali’s Bio

Mexican cook, with experience in different culinary areas, from restaurants, cafeterias, cruises, summer camps, college culinary art instructor, nowadays working at the school nutrition department in a cafeteria from an elementary school in Lewiston, I’m a Master preserver which has gave me the opportunity to volunteer and learn from all those experiences, I’ve also gave some classes at the Lewiston Adult education.

I’m passionate about gardening, horticulture, farming, bird watching and everything related to nature. I fell in love with Maine and a Mainer, a naturalist in spirit.

---

Applying Soil Amendments

By Rebecca Long, Coordinator of Horticulture Training Programs

Welcome back to the final article in our series on testing your soil, adjusting pH and managing soil fertility. We’ve discussed the types of amendments you might use in your garden, including lime or sulfur for pH adjustment, as well as fertilizers, compost, and manure. Now we’ll look more closely at how to apply them.

When incorporating amendments, a rototiller may be the first tool that comes to mind, and it may be the most practical option for incorporating large amounts of amendments, especially when establishing a new garden. However, frequent tilling damages the natural soil structure and can lead to compaction over time, so consider alternative methods to incorporate amendments whenever possible.

Fertilizer doesn’t have to be applied across the entire garden. Targeting your fertilizer application around your plants is more efficient and avoids feeding unwanted weeds. For transplants, fertilizer can be mixed into the planting hole, taking care to prevent plant roots from coming into direct contact with concentrated fertilizer which can cause damage. Before seeding directly into the garden, fertilizer can be lightly scratched into the soil surface with a hand tool or garden rake.

For perennial crops including lawns, and no-till gardens, fertilizer can be applied to the soil surface without incorporating it. Drop spreaders can help distribute amendments evenly over large areas. Mature trees and shrubs that appear healthy typically do not require supplemental fertilizer. If fertilizer is needed for established trees and shrubs, avoid application during drought conditions or late in the summer, when nitrogen can create a flush of growth that will be susceptible to frost damage. For trees, apply fertilizer over the entire root zone, which may extend up to one and a half times the width of the canopy. Keep fertilizer six inches away from plant stems to avoid burning.

A soil test provides the most accurate fertilizer recommendations. It shows which nutrients in your soil are below optimum levels and would make sense to apply, and which are already sufficient or excessive, in which case additional fertilizer would waste money and potentially contribute to environmental issues. If you do not have a soil test, select a product labeled for your crop and follow the recommended application rates.

Because fertilizers contain different percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, you may need to calculate how much of a specific product to apply based on your soil test recommendations and garden size. Refer to the article “Soil Fertility Basics” in the April Maine Home Garden News for help with calculations.

To simplify repeated applications of the same fertilizer, you can convert the application rate from weight to volume. Calculate how much fertilizer is needed for a standard area that makes sense to you, for example the size of one raised bed, measure that amount into a container, and mark the level for future use. This eliminates the need to weigh fertilizer each time.

When applying compost, a little goes a long way. While you might make a heavier application when establishing a new garden, routine applications of small amounts of compost (¼ in.) can provide benefits while limiting the risks from overapplication.

Manure application rates will depend on the type of manure and how much other material, like bedding, it contains. For food safety, manure is best applied in the fall before planting, ideally with a winter cover crop to retain nutrients. As with all soil amendments, carefully read product labels and wear appropriate protective equipment such as gloves, goggles, and a mask.
By testing your soil, adjusting pH, managing fertility, and applying amendments thoughtfully, you now have the tools to build healthy soil and support a productive, sustainable garden for years to come.

---

Lyme Disease Awareness Month

Courtesy of Maine Department of Health and Human Services

As Mainers head outdoors this spring, it is important to remember that ticks are active too. Make your life a tick-free zone by taking these simple steps every day:

• Know when you are in tick habitat and take precautions in places where ticks may live.
• Wear light-colored long-sleeved shirts and pants. Tuck pants into socks.
• Use an EPA-approved repellent like DEET, picaridin, IR3535, or oil of lemon eucalyptus. Pre-treat clothing with permethrin.
• Shower when you come inside from outdoor activity. This can help remove crawling ticks. Put clothes in the dryer on high heat for 15 minutes before washing to kill ticks on clothes.
• Check your whole body for ticks after outdoor activities and at least once per day. Check family members and pets, too.

If you start to feel sick after a tick bite, see a health care provider. For more information on tickborne diseases and tick bite prevention, visit UMaine tick lab’s website or Maine Center for Disease Control and Prevention’s website.

---

Featured Resource: Wild Seed Project, Where to Buy Native Plants Directory

If you haven’t already explored the Maine-based Wild Seed Project website to learn about their important work and incredible resources, take a moment to do so. They’re deeply knowledgeable and passionate about preserving the genetic diversity of native plants and enabling gardeners of all types to welcome native plants into managed landscapes.

One of their resources is a curated list of Where to Buy Native Plants. It’s organized by state and is a great starting point if you’re in the shopping mode. Look out for your favorite native plant nursery and nudge them to opt in if you don’t see them listed.

While you’re perusing the Wild Seed Project site, be sure to check out their list of Native Plants by Bloom Time to get inspiration on restocking your “pollinator pantry” to offer food resources for pollinators all season long!

---

Ask the Expert

Q. My rhubarb plant was coming in nice and healthy, but now it has brown patches and streaks across the leaves. Is this a disease or a pest problem?

Answer by Jonathan Foster, Horticulturist, University of Maine Cooperative Extension

This looks like frost damage from when the leaf was forming, and it’s the third question on the topic this week, so it’s going around the rhubarb community! We’ve had several frosts around the state (especially on the 21st of April) and this is typically what it looks like on rhubarb. The new leaves should not have these issues, so if they come in nice and green, you can prune out the worst of the damaged parts (they won’t typically recover) and go on about the season. If the stalks are damaged, they should be discarded, but if it’s only the leaves and the stalks still look healthy, they can be harvested a couple of days after the freezing event (see more in this Iowa State Univ Extension Q&A). If new leaves are showing symptoms, or if something else happens, reach out to the UMaine Cooperative Extension with additional photos and we can consider other options.

---

Maine Weather and Climate Overview

By Sean Birkel, Assistant Extension Professor, Maine State Climatologist, Cooperative Extension, Climate Change Institute, University of Maine.

April Recap & Drought Update: Temperatures last month were near normal in comparison to the long-term average for April.  However, there was a notable cold wave April 20–22, where some weather stations observed record daily minimum temperatures.  For example, morning temperature at the Bangor International Airport dropped to 19°F on April 21 (the average minimum for that day is 33°F).  In contrast, a warm wave developed April 26–27, where daytime temperatures reached into the high 60s and low 70s.

April precipitation was near normal across northern Maine (generally, north of Millinocket), but below normal across central and southern areas.  Precipitation was sufficient to see the removal of extreme drought from areas of southern Maine, and an overall contraction of severe drought elsewhere.  Most of the state remains in at least moderate drought, and groundwater levels continue to be below normal at most monitoring sites.  See the Northeast Drought Early Warning System Dashboard for more information.

Forecast & Outlook: U.S. and European global forecast models show the first week in May being cooler than normal with potential for frost on some mornings.  The weather pattern looks fairly active with potential for one or two storms systems that could produce beneficial rainfall.  The 1-month outlook for May shows equal chances of above or below normal temperature and precipitation.
This winter’s La Niña has faded to neutral, and a potentially strong El Niño is likely to emerge sometime this summer and persist through the end of the year. Warm ocean temperatures and subsequent heat and moisture released into the atmosphere during El Niño tend to produce more weather extremes than usual.

Maine Statewide 2026 Temperature & Precipitation Rankings
From NCEI Climate at a Glance:

• Apr: Monthly summary net yet available
• Mar: 34th Warmest (above average), 58th Driest (near average)
• Winter (Dec–Jan–Feb): 60th Warmest (near average), 5th Driest (much below average)
• Feb: 52nd Warmest (near average), 2nd Driest (much below average)
• Jan: 54th Warmest (near average), 28th Driest (below average)
• Dec: 44th Coldest (below average), 59th Wettest (near average)

For additional information, including historical temperature and precipitation data, weather forecasts, and seasonal climate outlooks, visit the Maine Climate Office website.

---

University of Maine Cooperative Extension is an equal opportunity institution and provider committed to nondiscrimination.
For more information, visit extension.umaine.edu/nondiscrimination.

---

Do you appreciate the work we are doing?

Consider making a contribution to the Maine Master Gardener Development Fund. Your dollars will support and expand Master Gardener Volunteer community outreach across Maine.

Donate to Maine Master Gardener

---

Your feedback is important to us!

We appreciate your feedback and ideas for future Maine Home Garden News topics. We look forward to sharing new information and inspiration in future issues.

---

Subscribe to Maine Home Garden News

Let us know if you would like to be notified when new issues are posted. To receive e-mail notifications, click on the Subscribe button below.

Subscribe to Maine Home Garden News

---

University of Maine Cooperative Extension’s Maine Home Garden News is designed to equip home gardeners with practical, timely information.

For more information or questions, contact Kate Garland at katherine.garland@maine.edu or 1.800.287.1485 (in Maine).

Visit our MHGN Archives to see past issues.

Maine Home Garden News was created in response to a continued increase in requests for information on gardening and includes timely and seasonal tips, as well as research-based articles on all aspects of gardening. Articles are written by UMaine Extension specialists, educators, and horticulture professionals, as well as Master Gardener Volunteers from around Maine. The following staff and volunteer team take great care editing content, designing the web and email platforms, maintaining email lists, and getting hard copies mailed to those who don’t have access to the internet: Abby Zelz*, Barbara Harrity*, Kate Garland, Mary Michaud, Michelle Snowden, Naomi Jacobs*, Phoebe Call*, and Wendy Robertson.

*Master Gardener Volunteers

Information in this publication is provided purely for educational purposes. No responsibility is assumed for any problems associated with the use of products or services mentioned. No endorsement of products or companies is intended, nor is criticism of unnamed products or companies implied.

© 2023

Call 800.287.0274 (in Maine), or 207.581.3188, for information on publications and program offerings from University of Maine Cooperative Extension, or visit extension.umaine.edu.