A vase full of yellow flowering forsythia stems on a kitchen countertop beside an assortment of colorful glassware, oil lamps and dishwashing supplies. An evergreen tree can be spotted through a window in the background.
Photo by Liz Stanley.

Maine Home Garden News – March 2026

February 26, 2026 Maine Home Garden News, News

In This Issue:

March Is the Month to . . .

By Kate Garland, Horticulture Professional

Renovate the raspberry patch.

Remove canes that bore fruit last year, new canes that are growing outside the desired 12–18” row width, and any weak or spindly new canes. Aim to leave just 4–5 sturdy canes per foot of row. Pruning brambles concentrates the plant’s energy into fewer stems and improves light penetration and air flow, resulting in a healthier and more productive crop. Because trimmings can harbor insects and disease, burn them or remove them from the area.

Prune overgrown shrubs.

reshly cut branches piled on two sunlit vintage outdoor chairs, one yellow and one dark green. Ground partially covered in snow. Exposed ground partially covered in grass. Tree trunk in background.
Photo by Liz Stanley.

Use clean, sharp tools and avoid removing more than one-third of the plant in a single season. Approach the job in three steps: 1) Remove dead, damaged, and diseased branches. 2) Remove branches that are crossing, growing inward, or extending beyond the desired shape. 3) If the shrub is crowded, remove selected older branches to improve light and air circulation.

Make most cuts at the point where the branch originates (thinning cuts) rather than cutting midway along a stem (heading cuts). While pruning has a learning curve, it does not need to be intimidating. See our pruning bulletin for additional guidance and how-to videos.

Plan ahead to grow for good.

Learn how your garden can support community health by participating in our upcoming Building Food Security in Maine webinar series. Whether you grow extra produce at home or join a community garden that donates to food security partners, you can make a meaningful impact. Set aside a little time in your upcoming spring and summer routine to grow for good.

Force branches indoors.

Cuttings of many spring-blooming shrubs and trees such as forsythia, quince, apples, and cherries will readily bloom if left in a vase indoors for a week or two. Add a little cheer to your world with this hopeful hint of sunny days ahead.

Celebrate Maine Maple Weekend.

Visit a local sugarhouse during Maine Maple Weekend, March 21–22. Producers across the state open their doors for tours, tastings, and family-friendly activities. Find participating locations through the Maine Maple Producers Association and make a plan to enjoy this truly sweet time of year with family and friends.

Follow a seed-starting schedule.

close up of a collection of brightly colored square plastic pots filled with newly germinated seedlings under a grow light. 
Photo by Kate Garland.

Some vegetables and flowers can be started indoors in March (e.g., celery, kale, pepper, artichoke, lettuce, petunia, hollyhock, foxglove, snapdragon, and stock), but many others should wait until April. The 2026 Seed Sowing Calendar below provides an at-a-glance reference for the number of weeks before your frost-free date, helping you interpret seed packet recommendations based on our local conditions. Write your plan on a calendar, create a simple spreadsheet, or keep a garden journal to stay on track.

NOTE: The green column shows the number of weeks before the estimated frost-free date for central Maine, based on historical weather data. If you live in coastal or southern Maine, your frost-free date is typically about one week earlier than central Maine. In northern Maine, your frost-free date is typically about one week later than central Maine. Use this adjustment to determine the best sowing date for your location.

2026 Seed Sowing Calendar

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March 2026 calendar displayed Monday through Sunday, with a side column indicating weeks remaining before the frost-free date, counting down from twelve to seven weeks at the beginning of the month to three weeks at the end.
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April 2026 calendar displayed Monday through Sunday, with a side column indicating weeks remaining before the frost-free date, counting down from seven to three weeks at the beginning of the month to three weeks at the end.
read caption for descriptive text
May 2026 calendar displayed Monday through Sunday, with a side column indicating weeks remaining before the frost-free date, counting down from Three to one weeks at the beginning of the month to three weeks at the end.

Matrix Planting: What is it and why consider it for your garden?

By Jennifer Cappello-Ruggiero, Horticulture Professional

One of the most frequent comments I hear from gardeners is, “I have been gardening for years and have never had these problems before.” And I hear it frequently because the pressures of climate change, including sustained high temperatures, prolonged drought, and increasingly intense rain events, are reshaping our landscapes. In response to these changes, we must rethink how we manage our gardens and outdoor spaces. The priority is to build resilience by creating or adapting landscapes that can adjust and respond to changing environmental conditions.

Matrix planting is a garden design technique that can improve the resiliency of our gardens and help them respond to changing conditions. So let’s dig in.

What is it?

Densely planted garden with a mix of tall grasses and flowering plants blooming in yellow and purple with a wooden structure off to the side and trees in the background.
Photo by Abi Griffith.

Matrix planting relies on a few dominant species to form the “matrix” into which other plants are placed. By modeling the design on secondary succession—a process in which plant communities establish and continue developing toward greater maturity—matrix planting attempts to mimic natural landscapes in the way they respond to shifting conditions. Species that once performed well may decline, while others better adapted to the site may establish and expand. In a matrix design, plants are allowed to move around as they reseed and spread and are chosen for their compatibility to both the site and the other plants. Examples of matrix planting can be seen in many meadow-style plantings, including the High Line in New York City.

There are three layers in matrix planting:

  • the ground cover, consisting of lower grasses and sedges;
  • the seasonal layer, consisting of mid-height ornamental herbaceous plants that provide color and texture from spring to through winter; and
  • the structural layer, consisting of taller grasses and herbaceous plant material, shrubs, and trees.

The foundation of matrix planting is the ground cover layer, which functions as a green mulch; other than the mulch applied in the first year, no additional mulch is used. In the first year, vacant spaces may be filled with annuals for short-term interest or with additional perennials to strengthen the matrix over time.

Matrix planting designs use modular plans, created on gridded paper with the intersecting areas representing the matrix where the groundcover of sedges and grasses are placed. The modular design can be as small as 10’ x 10’. To fill a larger space, the initial 10’ x 10’ design can be replicated multiple times. A visual representation of this plan is available with the resources I list at the end of the article.

Why consider it?

tall grasses with graceful brown seed heads with tall purple flowering plants and trees in the background. Bright blue skies with wispy clouds above.
Photo by Kate Garland.

When I moved into my home, the landscape was primarily turf with established maple and oak trees. As a low-cost approach to removing the turf and creating beds for planting, I used cardboard and mulch or a layering approach in the fall to kill off the turf for spring planting. Because the turf had been so dense, I continued to put down mulch each season to keep any stray turf at bay. I then realized that the mulch was inhibiting my plants from seeding into new areas. With a matrix design, however, plants can and do move around. However, due to the density of the planting, species behavior or sociability (topic for a later article) is very important, as you do not want one plant to outcompete the rest.

Matrix planting is not exclusive to new garden spaces; you can also apply this method to reinvigorate an existing landscape. By slowly incorporating more adaptable plant material, you build the resiliency of your garden for future success.

The are several benefits to matrix planting:

  • Because plant material decomposes in place and roots naturally senesce, matrix planting adds organic matter to the soil and conserves moisture and reduces weeds.
  • Since plants occupy different vertical layers, matrix designs maximize plants’ use of light, nutrients, and water.
  • Because in a matrix design neighboring plants are of different sizes, they have different rooting depths, which reduces competition.
  • The overall increase in species diversity in matrix planting can help reduce insect and disease cycles.
  • Since many of the plants used in the design are native species, they also attract native predator insects for biological pest control.

When starting any new practice or garden, start small and expand as you learn from the initial planting. Unlike highly managed landscapes, the plants will decide how they move and spread. Use this information to inform future decisions as you expand your garden.

We can not anticipate how plants will respond to the changing conditions over time; it is almost a science project in the garden, watching and waiting to see if it is just this season or if conditions have changed enough to warrant some replacements. Native plants are the best option for adapting to changes in environmental conditions and serving local wildlife.

This article is a brief foray into matrix planting. For a deeper dive, read Planting in a Post-Wild World: Designing Plant Communities for Resilient Landscapes by Claudia West and Thomas Rainer. And enjoy the following two webinar recordings: Intro to Matrix Design presented by Benjamin Vogt and Garden Design: Matrix Planting presented by Scott Vogt.

Plant Disease Diagnostics Self-Paced Course

The University of Maine Cooperative Extension is proud to launch our latest online resource: Plant Disease Diagnostics. This self-paced course is designed to move you beyond guesswork, providing a scientific, 5-step workflow to identify and manage plant pathogens in the Northeast.

close up image of an reddish pink apple covered in various sized overlapping splotches of hazy coloration. White background.
Apple scar skin viroid diagnosed by the UMaine Plant Disease Diagnostic Lab. Photo by Dr. Alicyn Smart.

Whether you are managing a commercial greenhouse, a professional landscape, or a productive home garden, this learning experience offers high-level training and tangible professional benefits. Developed by UMaine Extension specialist Dr. Alicyn Smart, the learning experience focuses on practical, evidence-based skills. In approximately 6 hours of interactive learning, you will learn the following:

  • The 5-Step Diagnostic Process: From host identification to action planning.
  • Biotic vs. Abiotic Stress: Distinguish between living pathogens (fungi, bacteria, viruses) and environmental factors (nutrient deficiencies, frost, or herbicide drift).
  • Symptom Recognition: Learn to accurately name and analyze signs like chlorosis, cankers, and wilting.
  • Sample Submission: Best practices for packaging and sending samples to our nationally accredited lab.

Earn Credits and Credentials

This is more than just a learning opportunity—it is a significant boost to your professional profile:

  1. Six Pesticide Recertification Credits: Successful completion is approved for six (6) credits from the Maine Board of Pesticide Control, making this an efficient way for Maine private pesticide applicators to fulfill the 6 recertification credits required every three years to renew their license.qr code
  2. UMaine Digital Badge: Participants will earn the Plant Disease Diagnostics micro-badge. This verifiable digital credential can be showcased on LinkedIn, resumes, and business websites to demonstrate your specialized expertise to clients and employers.

Enroll here:  Plant Disease Diagnostics

Spring Learning Opportunities

Before the growing season ramps up, take advantage of expert-led learning you can access from home. Our spring webinars and courses are tailored to Maine conditions and designed to help you garden more effectively, whether your goal is higher yields, stronger communities, or better habitat.

Brightly colored collection of vegetables on a wooden bench arranged in a rainbow pattern. Mixture includes red tomatoes, orange and yellow carrots, yellow and green tomatoes, green peppers, purple eggplants and deep purple carrots.
Photo by Christina Lannan.

Here’s the lineup for our spring webinar series Building Food Security in Maine:

More webinar bundles are available to watch anytime you want.

And don’t miss our Pollinator-Friendly Gardening course: perfect for creating a garden that supports bees, butterflies, and beyond.

Managing Garden Soil pH

By Rebecca Long, Coordinator of Horticulture Training Programs

This article is the second in a miniseries focused on building healthy soils. Check out last month’s issue for basics of soil testing, (Article Soil Health) and watch for articles on selecting fertility sources and applying amendments in upcoming issues.

a metal bucket of wood ash resting in the middle of a snowy yard.
Wood ash acts like lime by raising pH and should only be used if lime is recommended. Photo by Kate Garland.

Once you have your soil test results, the first step is to determine whether your soil’s pH needs to be adjusted.

What is pH? Soil pH measures how acidic or basic your soil is on a scale from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. Most garden crops grow best between pH 5.5 and 7.5, where nutrients are most available. Adjusting your soil’s pH is just as crucial to your crops success as applying fertilizer. Because they evolved in naturally acidic soils, Maine native plants like blueberries and wildflowers perform best in lower pH environments.

Your soil test gives specific recommendations of what to apply if your soil pH needs adjustment. These recommendations are based on what you plan to grow, your soil’s current pH, and other factors that affect how much material is needed to change your soil’s pH.

Adjusting pH: If you need to raise your soil’s pH, your test will recommend agricultural lime, usually calcitic lime, or dolomitic lime if magnesium is also needed. You don’t need anything fancy; standard agricultural lime is sufficient although pelleted products may be easier to apply. Lime can be applied with a drop spreader or by hand in small gardens by weighing it out and spreading it as evenly as possible.

If you need to lower your soil’s pH, sulfur will be recommended. Elemental sulfur is available wherever garden supplies are sold. Note that sulfur is also sold as a fungicide, so make sure you are purchasing sulfur intended for use as a soil amendment.

Whenever you apply soil amendments, read the product label and wear appropriate personal protective equipment like gloves, goggles, and a mask.

Both lime and sulfur react slowly in soil, so be patient and do not retest for at least six months. Testing too soon can lead to overapplication. Incorporating lime and sulfur into the soil is ideal, but not always possible for lawns or no-till systems.

Always base application of lime or sulfur on soil test results. Applying amendments without knowing your soil’s pH risks wasting materials and may require costly corrections later. Also watch for “sneaky” amendments: wood ash acts like lime by raising pH and should only be used if lime is recommended (replace lime with wood ash at a 1:1 ratio). Some composts, especially those made with seashells, can raise pH if applied heavily, so test regularly if you apply compost.

Next month we’ll take a closer look at choosing fertilizers and compost for your garden.

Ask the Expert: How do rhododendron blooms survive our cold winters?

I have a question about how rhododendrons with buds set in the fall survive our brutal Maine winters and bring forth their gorgeous blooms in the spring. What is it in their structure or make up that allows this to happen?

Answer by Jonathan Foster, Horticulturist

Before we get to the actual mechanisms, it’s important to frame the answer in an ideal ecosystem that the plants in question have evolved and acclimated to—proper geographical placement for the species, predictable seasonal shifts, an methodical decrease in temperature in the fall and increase in temperature in the spring, adequate precipitation/irrigation, etc. Plants, especially flowering plants, thrive on routine with regular shifts in seasonal conditions. They will, of course, adapt to changes from year to year, but those adaptations may have an impact on processes like flowering. Tragically, climate change is forcing these changes at a rate many plants struggle to adopt. All of that to say that plants, like all organisms, will perform their functions better or worse depending on conditions and resources.

a look into a large rhododendron shrub in winter. Mulitiple stems covered in thick green leaves that are rolled to protect from damage that can happen when exposed to the combination of winter sun and wind. Many of the stems are topped with fat flower buds ready to bloom in spring.
Photo by Kate Garland.

With that large caveat out of the way, let’s talk about the amazing way plants protect overwintering flower buds! Internal ice is the real enemy during the cold months. Obviously, plants are full of water and when that water freezes, it expands into crystals that burst or pierce plant cells, destroying them. In fact, what actually kills the cells is massive leakage and dehydration upon thawing, which is why cold damage on plants often turns soggy. Sudden, early or late hard freezes can kill unprepared plants’ tissues by freezing before mitigating circumstances are in place. But if the plant has properly prepared, there are two broad mechanisms that guard against ice: extracellular freezing and deep supercooling.

Extracellular freezing occurs when the plant actively pumps water out of living cells into (1) the vast network of empty space between cells in a plant anatomical region called the apoplast (that particular site discusses tree anatomy, but it’s the same in other plants), or (2) the reinforced cells in the freeze-tolerant bud scales that surround the flower bud. Ice that forms in the apoplast has a lot more room to expand into without damaging living cells. And bud scale cells are hardened with stronger cell wall tissues and reinforced architecture that can withstand ice for a longer period of time (and they’re ultimately less important than the bud tissue below, and therefore expendable if they do sustain damage).

Deep supercooling is an ancillary mechanism that happens as a result of basic chemistry. When the water is pumped out of the cellular solution inside living cells, the internal solute concentration becomes higher, which lowers the solution’s freezing point. Water can actually remain liquid well below freezing temperatures if the conditions are right, though in plants this capability varies widely by species.

So, to your question, cold-hardy rhododendrons tend to allow bud scales to take the brunt of internal freezing by moving water into those zones in preparation for freezes and to maintain the bud tissues themselves lower down in supercooled, usually ice-free conditions.

Interesting references:

Happy gardening.

Featured Resource: The Seed Library Network

Mottled brown and black rounded seeds arranged in a heart shape on a white background.
Kate Garland‘Buxton Buckshot’ pole beans. Photo by Kate Garland.

Seed libraries are gaining momentum nationwide, with participation and community interest expanding significantly over the past several years. These grassroots initiatives promote seed saving, increase access to locally adapted plant varieties, and strengthen regional food resilience.

Have you considered starting a seed library in your community? Or are you fortunate to already have one you rely on each growing season?

The Seed Library Network is an outstanding resource for anyone interested in launching, maintaining, or participating in a seed library. Their website offers practical guidance on everything from collection development and cataloging systems to seed-saving protocols, volunteer management, outreach strategies, and policy considerations. Whether you are in the exploratory phase or looking to strengthen an existing program, their tools and case studies provide clear guidance to help you reach your goals.

Featured Flashback

How to Clean and Sharpen Your Pruners—article reposted with permission in the February 2021 issue of Maine Home Garden News by Emma Erler, Education Center Coordinator, UNH Cooperative Extension.

Did you know Maine Home Garden News has more than a decade of archived articles? This year we’ll be highlighting one timeless treasure each month, drawing from years of research-based gardening guidance that remains just as relevant today. We invite you to explore the archives and discover even more practical information. There is far more waiting to be found!

Maine Weather and Climate Overview

By Sean Birkel, Assistant Extension Professor, Maine State Climatologist, Cooperative Extension, Climate Change Institute, University of Maine.

This has been the coldest climatological winter (December-January-February; DJF) in just over a decade for at least the southern half of the state.  Below are the preliminary rankings (through February 24th for this season) from three long-term weather stations.  Statewide rankings based on the full month of February and DJF will be reported in the next newsletter.

Portland (airport)

Feb 2026 preliminary: 22.0°F, coldest since Feb 2015 (13.8°F), near Feb 2025 (22.4°F)
DJF 2025/26 preliminary: 22.6°F, coldest since DJF 2013/14 (22.6°F) and 2014/15 (22.9°F)

Bangor (airport)

Feb 2026 preliminary: 17.0°F, coldest since Feb 2015 (6.1°F), near Feb 2025 (17.7°F)
DJF 2025/26 preliminary: 17.8°F, coldest since DJF 2014/15 (16.5°F)

Caribou (weather forecast office)

Feb 2026 preliminary: 14.1°F, ties Feb 2025 (14.1°F)
DJF 2025/26 preliminary: 13.4°F, coldest since DJF 2018/19 (12.9°F)

In the forecast, both the U.S. and European global models show March beginning with a cold wave, where morning temperatures could drop into the single digits or below zero on the 2nd and 3rd.  Then temperatures hover near normal until a warm wave develops in the second week, perhaps bringing temperatures into the 40s and 50s before another pattern change.  The NOAA 1-month climate outlook for March shows equal chances of above or below normal conditions for both temperature and precipitation.

Visit weather.gov for the most up-to-date forecasts.  Severe weather alerts, snowfall probability maps, and other guidance can be found on the National Weather Service Gray and Caribou forecast office winter weather pages.

6-10 precipitation outlook

 

monthly temp and predip outlook

Drought Latest: Moderate to severe drought conditions persist across the majority of Maine, and extreme drought continues to affect a portion of coastal Cumberland and York counties. Little change is expected until spring when melting snow can seep into the subsurface and recharge groundwater. More information is available on the Maine Drought Task Force website.

U.S. drought Monitor Northeast DEWS

Maine Statewide 2026 Temperature & Precipitation Rankings

From NCEI Climate at a Glance

  • Winter (Dec-Jan-Feb): Not yet available
  • Dec–Jan: 65th Warmest (near average), 38th Driest (below average)
  •  Jan: 54th Warmest (near average), 28th Driest (below average)
  • Dec: 44th Coldest (below average), 59th Wettest (near average)

For additional information, including historical temperature and precipitation data, weather forecasts, and seasonal climate outlooks, visit the Maine Climate Office website.

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University of Maine Cooperative Extension’s Maine Home Garden News is designed to equip home gardeners with practical, timely information.

For more information or questions, contact Kate Garland at katherine.garland@maine.edu or 1.800.287.1485 (in Maine).

Visit our Archives to see past issues.

Maine Home Garden News was created in response to a continued increase in requests for information on gardening and includes timely and seasonal tips, as well as research-based articles on all aspects of gardening. Articles are written by UMaine Extension specialists, educators, and horticulture professionals, as well as Master Gardener Volunteers from around Maine. The following staff and volunteer team take great care editing content, designing the web and email platforms, maintaining email lists, and getting hard copies mailed to those who don’t have access to the internet: Abby Zelz*, Barbara Harrity*, Kate Garland, Mary Michaud, Michelle Snowden, Naomi Jacobs*, Phoebe Call*, and Wendy Robertson.

*Master Gardener Volunteers

Information in this publication is provided purely for educational purposes. No responsibility is assumed for any problems associated with the use of products or services mentioned. No endorsement of products or companies is intended, nor is criticism of unnamed products or companies implied.

© 2023

Call 800.287.0274 (in Maine), or 207.581.3188, for information on publications and program offerings from University of Maine Cooperative Extension, or visit extension.umaine.edu.